Spring: The stretch of time between now and Memorial Day when the days are just warm enough as the nights are cool. This season calls for a transition in your wardrobe and attitude that strikes a delicate balance between the structure of winter and the ease of summer. In a word: versatility.
Versatile spring style is achieved by smart layering. For those in the northernmost areas, you're still going to know the inside of your winter coat for some time. But for those in more temperate regions, an ensemble comprised of lightweight layers not only keeps you warmer than one bulky sweater or coat, it's also a great way to create interest and dimension to your look, all while regulating your body temperature as it fluctuates between morning and night.
The versatility doesn't end there. The reason why it's a good idea to invest in cool, intelligent transitional gear is that, unlike summer or winter clothes, you can sport them twice - for spring and fall. So by choosing these threads wisely, you maximize your fashion ROI.
Onto the clothes, which usually involves 3 or 4 layers:
The first layer is the base, typically an undershirt, t-shirt, or henley (my personal fave) that fits close to the body and absorbs moisture. Forget the big, boxy Beefy-T's from back in college and opt for the thinner, silkier, fitted versions - since they're better at wicking moisture, you'll feel lighter and drier (= more comfortable) when the temperature creeps up, and it'll make your additional layers fit better.
The next layer(s) could be a knit top such as a polo shirt, or crew or v-neck sweater. Again, keep the fabric on the thinner side, such as lightweight jersey or fine gauge knit. If you're wearing a button-front shirt instead, try fabrics such as chambray and poplin instead of heavy oxfords. And keep the sleeves long - when you feel the heat, rolling them up is always an attractive option. You can continue layering with a sweater, a luxe hoodie (not the kind you wear to the gym), cardigan, or for the ultimate statement, a vest.
Then comes the outer piece - the jacket. A sport coat in medium-weight fabric is always a good choice, but if you want to kick up the style quotient, try a less structured, unlined jacket, or a partially-lined one in cotton, nylon, or lightweight wool. It'll still give you the secure feel of a jacket, but with an ease in attitude that should compliment the season. Same thing for leather or suede jackets - the thinner and more supple the hide, the more spring-worthy. Zip-front sweaters are also interesting stand-ins for jackets.
If you're wearing a suit, it's definitely time to store away the heavy tweeds and wools, and reach for your all-purpose, medium-weight suitings. It's not yet time for cotton suits - that's strictly a summer phenomenon - so WAIT. You may be a bit chilly in the morning and night with just your suit, so invest in a good inter-seasonal coat to wear in the spring and fall. A classic khaki trench coat will never fall out of rotation, but there are other options, such as a lightweight nylon parka with a detachable hood. Both options keep you warm and protected from the elements (wind and rain), while offering the perfect union of function and style.
As for bottoms, anything, within reason and taste, in medium weight, is game. Just no shorts, please! (see previous post). I'll cover pants specifically in a future post, soon, along with posts on shoes, underwear, and everything else.
One final word on fit: how your clothes fit can make you or break you, no matter how expensive or beautiful the clothes. Never let this important point escape your mind, even in your sleep.
[Photos, Barney's New York Spring 2009 Catalog]
