VERITAS | Men's Style Blog

New Mac in Town

One more rainwear post before we resume back to spring sunshine gear....

Partnering with the renowned originator of the Mackintosh coat, J.Crew brings you the "Mackintosh® Coat for J.Crew." I have yet to see it in person, but I must admit it looks gorgeous in these photos.

Named after the Scottish inventor Charles Macintosh (without the "k") and made from his patented rubberized waterproof cloth, the first Mackintosh coats were manufactured in his family's textile factory in Glasgow and debuted in 1824.

While the name "Mackintosh" or "Mac," is now popularly used to refer to any coat that resembles the Mackintosh style, an authentic Mackintosh should be made from waterproof or water-resistant fabric. In a word: raincoat.

Considering that this J.Crew Mac comes from authentic pedigree, is handmade in Scotland from water-resistant cotton, and provides the added functionality of underarm grommets for ventilation, it bears, as to be expected, a respectable price tag of $800. Granted the coat has all the qualifications of a first-rate genuine Mackintosh, is beautiful to behold as I'm sure, to be in, I'm left a little unsure of the ultimate perceived value that a label like J.Crew can provide for its out-of-character asking price. For the same amount of cash, you can either buy a real Mackintosh (below) or go for the other rainwear giant, Burberry.

I'll let you decide what it's worth for you, but as I've mentioned, I think this coat is a beauty. If you fall for it, I guarantee it'll be a white-hot romance for years to come. It's simple yet elegant, luxurious yet relaxed - a perfect marriage of classicism and modernity.

Being such a damned good-looking piece of rain gear, I don't blame you for wanting to get one (offered in black and khaki). So get it now to wear for what's left of the cooler mornings and nights before summer, but get ready to unleash it full-throttle come post-Labor Day!

Shower-Proof Style

One thing you can count on about the weather is its unpredictability. How many times have you trusted the weather forecast that called for no rain before heading out for the day, only to find yourself caught in a downpour on your way home?

Spring weather between April to mid-May can be especially inconsistent. Here in NYC, every week this month has been a mixed bag of gorgeous spring weather for a day, followed by two days of gusty winds and torrential rain, then to a temperate few days, then back to warm again. The point is, with the weather pattern this schizophrenic, you can't afford to be without a trusty raincoat that keeps you warm during the cool morning and evening commute and protects you from the elements whenever it decides to throw down.

As the saying goes, "April showers bring May flowers." So for the sake of plants and flowers, suck it up and arm yourself with stylish rain gear that not only prepares you for the occasional shower, but one that will make you actually want the rain and clouds to keep on coming.

There are plenty of varieties for you to choose from in style and performance - from the heavy duty storm coats to paper-thin nylon versions. But for the average dude whose only extreme activity is getting in and out of cars and buildings and maybe walking a few blocks for his local coffee fix, nothing beats a classic trench, mackintosh, or any variation of them.

But be careful. The old-fashioned versions that your dad and grandpa wore, the ones that fall below the knees, with massive shoulders and curtains of fabric: STAY AWAY. If you're under 55, there's nothing in it for you except making you look like a tool - a tool that likes wearing his dad's coat.

The best coat for maximum flair and precipitation protection is a cropped version that falls mid-thigh. Look for ones in lighter weights that are made from cotton that's blended with impermeable fibers such as nylon and polyester, or cotton that's coated with resin, polyurethane or any kind of waterproof or water-resistant treatment. The key is to have the fabric look and feel closer to cotton or wool - more natural, but with a high-tech finish or weave that gives it its water-repellency. Turn away from fabrics that are too slick and shiny - you're not that kind of guy, are you?

Opt for tailored styles, but you decide if you want a simpler and less structured style (single-breasted, above) or a more detailed and highly structured style (belted double-breasted below). Choosing single-breasted or double-breasted is up to you. Single-breasted styles tend to be more relaxed; double-breasted exudes a sharper, military feeling. Both have mad style and look smart as hell.

Colorwise, you'll never go wrong with the classics: khaki, stone, grey or black.

Chosen carefully and intelligently, the raincoat is a sound investment piece that will add polish and flair to any ensemble for years to come. A gentleman always steps out in style - especially when it's dark, stormy, and straight-up ugly out there.

Spring Patterns

Building on the solid colors discussed on the last post, it's time to add the next element: pattern.

When it comes to pattern, a little goes a long way. The same rule applies to the use of pattern as what I previously mentioned about the use of white - sparingly and judiciously. Done right, adding a little pattern to your otherwise solid get-up will kick-start your spring style into high gear.

The warm season is especially conducive to pattern-wearing. Depending on the pattern type, size, and/or color, something about its ease or playful attitude goes well with the spirit of spring and summer. However, there are distinctions to be made for what patterns suit which season. When choosing patterns for spring, stick to the classics: plaids, checks, and stripes -  there's plenty of variety within these three categories to satisfy every personality and taste level.

As the air and temperature in spring are still on the crisp, fresh side, choose patterns that compliment those same qualities. This means simple, clean, clearly defined patterns in non-fussy weaves like gingham and solid stripes. The same applies to colors: clean, clear and bright. By bright I'm not just talking about bright colors such as bright orange and green (which, by the way, are great for spring), but I'm also referring more to the feeling of brightness.

For instance, the shirts below (all by J.Crew) have medium blue and dark blue yarns - if you saw just the blue yarns before they were woven into each cloth, you'd definitely say they're not bright. However, they feel bright and light because of the white background. That's what I mean by bright - in a more general context - a sense, a feeling of lightness.

In this way, you can more or less wear any color, as long as it's grounded with a light background. And as I've mentioned on the last post, white is the king of backgrounds for spring patterns - it single-handedly lifts anything you wear into a spring-appropriate ensemble. If the pattern's background isn't white, in which case I recommend off-white or light cream, be sure that there's still some white incorporated into the overall pattern - just a little white somewhere will still be able to brighten the entire pattern.

Colorwise, again, keep things simple. Two-color checks and stripes such as the ones pictured above are virtually goof-proof. They always look great and go with just about anything, and they certainly pair well with all the colors I've mentioned on the previous post. If you go for a multi-color pattern, stick to as few color combinations as possible, and make sure the pattern is defined and clean, not muddy. But do experiment with all the varieties of colors available in these types of patterns - this is the right season to play around - just make sure that the colors work with your skin tone. (I'll cover skin tone analysis and color later).

Keep the size of spring patterns literally in "check" - smaller and on the tight side,  but with clean and defined lines to offset the smaller scale of the pattern. Again, it's always about balance - in this case, between subtle and graphic.

The easiest, obvious way to wear pattern is to wear it as a shirt, keeping the rest of your gear solid. If you want to up the ante though, try using patterns as accent pieces, such as on pocket squares and ties. Just make sure the accent piece and the area it lays on has some kind of relationship, either by sharing a part of a common color, tonality, etc. I'll get to the subjects of adding accents and the art of layering pattern-on-pattern on future posts, but for now, if you're in doubt, don't go there.

Take these tips and make them your own. Try out some colors and have fun. Spring is an uplifting season, so cheer up, brighten up, and add a bit of flair to your style!

Spring Colors

Let's go over some fool-proof colors to wear and enjoy now.

Just as spring strikes the middle note between winter and summer, your color choices should follow suit. So go ahead and lighten up, but know when to pull back. The key is to keep the balance toward the mid-range, with accents of darks and lights to add dimension and personality to your look.

Neutral: The best spring choices are mid-level neutrals in khakis, olives, browns, stones, and greys. These shades should still convey a sense of color without looking too heavy or washed out. They layer together well and are excellent foundations for adding pops of whites/creams or colors on top, which you'll need in order to energize and add visual interest to your spring wardrobe.

White: White is going to be important from now until the end of summer, but use it sparingly for now, either as accents or as background. No head-to-toe white just yet. For spring, white's main role is as lead support, not the main attraction. Used judiciously, nothing beats white's power to lift the overall mood of the season and lock in your spring style.

Black: Black is one color you can wear all year round. Head-to-toe black is too somber and stifling for this time of year, so mix it up with some neutrals, whites, or colors - my favorite is black with soft grey. Since black goes well with any color, you can technically pair it with any shade in the visible spectrum - but again, for spring, keep them in the mid-to-light levels.  And of course you can never go wrong with the graphic pairing of black & white - just make sure you're not mistaken for a waiter...and if you're unsure, forget it.

Navy: Navy - especially the navy blazer - is definitely the star of the season and the perfect substitute for black. Change up any of your blacks with navy and you've got an instant dose of springtime cool. Navy also works well with neutrals, whites, and lots of colors, and compliments clear brights and primary colors better than black. And if you really can't give up black, try a deep, inky navy that does double duty as navy/black depending on the lighting.

Brown: A warm, sophisticated color that adds richness and depth to spring dressing. This is a great color to wear to either ground or top off your look, such as on pants, pullovers, or jackets. Pair it with shades of ivory, cream, sand, and stone for a soft, earthy feel. Brown worn in spring conveys a sense of ease while maintaining a level of complexity. It says you're a discerning man that also knows how to take it easy when the weather softens.

Color: In terms of real "color," spring is a great season for clear brights such as kelly green, classic red, and cobalt blue. Pale colors like sky blue are okay, but use sparingly - balance it out so your overall look doesn't get too light or washed out. Ground paler colors with richer, deeper colors that compliment and add depth, rather than creating stark contrasts such as with black.

Remember, it's all about balance and keeping things interesting, all while staying the middle course between extreme light and dark. Apply this concept to any color you like, and chances are, you're going to get it right.

Ease Into Spring

Spring: The stretch of time between now and Memorial Day when the days are just warm enough as the nights are cool. This season calls for a transition in your wardrobe and attitude that strikes a delicate balance between the structure of winter and the ease of summer. In a word: versatility.

Versatile spring style is achieved by smart layering. For those in the northernmost areas, you're still going to know the inside of your winter coat for some time. But for those in more temperate regions, an ensemble comprised of lightweight layers not only keeps you warmer than one bulky sweater or coat, it's also a great way to create interest and dimension to your look, all while regulating your body temperature as it fluctuates between morning and night.

The versatility doesn't end there. The reason why it's a good idea to invest in cool, intelligent transitional gear is that, unlike summer or winter clothes, you can sport them twice - for spring and fall. So by choosing these threads wisely, you maximize your fashion ROI.

Onto the clothes, which usually involves 3 or 4 layers:

The first layer is the base, typically an undershirt, t-shirt, or henley (my personal fave) that fits close to the body and absorbs moisture. Forget the big, boxy Beefy-T's from back in college and opt for the thinner, silkier, fitted versions - since they're better at wicking moisture, you'll feel lighter and drier (= more comfortable) when the temperature creeps up, and it'll make your additional layers fit better.

The next layer(s) could be a knit top such as a polo shirt, or crew or v-neck sweater. Again, keep the fabric on the thinner side, such as lightweight jersey or fine gauge knit. If you're wearing a button-front shirt instead, try fabrics such as chambray and poplin instead of heavy oxfords. And keep the sleeves long - when you feel the heat, rolling them up is always an attractive option. You can continue layering with a sweater, a luxe hoodie (not the kind you wear to the gym), cardigan, or for the ultimate statement, a vest.

Then comes the outer piece - the jacket. A sport coat in medium-weight fabric is always a good choice, but if you want to kick up the style quotient, try a less structured, unlined jacket, or a partially-lined one in cotton, nylon, or lightweight wool. It'll still give you the secure feel of a jacket, but with an ease in attitude that should compliment the season. Same thing for leather or suede jackets - the thinner and more supple the hide, the more spring-worthy. Zip-front sweaters are also interesting stand-ins for jackets.

If you're wearing a suit, it's definitely time to store away the heavy tweeds and wools, and reach for your all-purpose, medium-weight suitings. It's not yet time for cotton suits - that's strictly a summer phenomenon - so WAIT. You may be a bit chilly in the morning and night with just your suit, so invest in a good inter-seasonal coat to wear in the spring and fall. A classic khaki trench coat will never fall out of rotation, but there are other options, such as a lightweight nylon parka with a detachable hood. Both options keep you warm and protected from the elements (wind and rain), while offering the perfect union of function and style.

As for bottoms, anything, within reason and taste, in medium weight, is game. Just no shorts, please! (see previous post). I'll cover pants specifically in a future post, soon, along with posts on shoes, underwear, and everything else.

One final word on fit: how your clothes fit can make you or break you, no matter how expensive or beautiful the clothes. Never let this important point escape your mind, even in your sleep.

[Photos, Barney's New York Spring 2009 Catalog]