VERITAS | Men's Style Blog

CLASS vs CRASS: Keeping It Open

CRASS: Shirt unbuttoned too far down.

Yes - the temperature's rising and you want to stay cool. No - just because you feel cool don't mean you look it. Unbuttoning your shirt down to the navel is seriously taking it too far, but if Fabio is your idol and you're proud of it, read no further. Unless you're one of a handful of men in the world who can navigate this treacherously territory (see "exempt" below), I suggest that most of you stop after releasing that second button.

Now, there's nothing inherently wrong with opening up your shirt. Worn the right way at the right time, it sends out an open, subtly welcoming vibe that works well as a weapon of mass attraction. Remember that clothing is a powerful vehicle of communication. As with all intelligent dialogue, know what you and your chest are saying with that open shirt of yours. You know what it means when someone's described as "buttoned-up." So think about what it means to be "unbuttoned."

So what's wrong with Rico Suave here? EVERYTHING. But since the focus of this post is on the open shirt, I'll just go there. First, he's too amphibious - a look that may win gold medals on the Olympic swim team, but not at a party when all that you hope to score are some phone numbers. He looks like he gets his entire body - including his eyebrows - waxed. I understand that guys from certain ethnicities, like my Asian bros, don't have much body hair, but there is a difference between a guy who's naturally light on hair and a guy who unnaturally manscapes his entire body.

This guy may think he's coming off virile, but he really comes across as sterile - high maintenance, sanitized, and probably much prettier than his dates. The open shirt is meant to say he's up for a good time, but I have a feeling the good time will come to a screeching halt once a strand of his coif falls out of place. I closed up a couple of buttons for him with the help of Photoshop, and already he looks more masculine, more respectable. He would actually look pretty hot if he quit his waxing habit and lost the belt, chains, and that fake ice on his finger.

If being amphibious isn't your problem, but rather, being mistaken for a bear, you may want to bring out the clippers, turn the dial down to, say, a 3 or 4, and give yourself a tasteful deforesting. Go for a little less density while staying natural, not like you dragged a lawnmower across your chest. Most women prefer a bit of chest hair - it's a sign of masculinity. So be glad that you have the goods, even if it's a rug. Just exercise routine maintenance and keep it well trimmed and groomed.

Two words that define crass: Simon Cowell. He's neither a sex symbol nor a superstar (although I'm sure about 3 women in the entire world and his girlfriend might disagree). He's a television personality whose biggest claim to fame is for being equal parts prick and discovering unknown talent in the pop world. I do sometimes respect his straight talk now and then, but the guy is clearly mean-spirited at worst and arrogant at best. Opening his shirt well below his sternum and exposing his famous man-breasts is his way of telling us all to ... must I finish the sentence?

EXEMPT: Here are some men that came to mind that I feel are exempt from this discussion. In fact, they transcend class and crass altogether by being in a category all their own. These men are in complete congruence with who they are and their way, waaay open shirts - in other words, they unapologetically embody the open shirt. Can you imagine any of these guys buttoning up? Sir Tom Jones: At close to 70, the man still has hysterical women throwing knickers his way. Tom Ford: This man is a bona fide International Creative Man of Mystery. The way I see it, if he can do this on his ad campaign, he can bring it down as far as he wants. Mickey Rourke: Well, because he's Mickey Rourke. Case closed.

CLASS: I can't call this look class in the strict sense, but it is an edgy, radically cool alternative to the topmost look. This guy exudes mystery, danger, intensity (well, he does play a vampire). He keeps things lean, mean and modern with a fitted, monochromatic look. The boots are a bit exotic, but keeping the rest simple and in one color scheme balances out a little flash. The real wild accessory is his hair - on his head and face - they add to the unpredictable, untamed vibe, like a menacing modern day James Dean.

On the opposite spectrum is this charming look. The newsboy cap, the tailored vest (notice how it strategically quality-controls the shirt opening), the by-gone era look - all suggest that he's a creative type. Again, no excess fabric - everything fits close to the body. The sky blue shirt and deep blue vest bringing out his blue eyes. The exposed chest hair says that, beneath his youthful and playful facade, he's all man. This is a great example of a man who utilizes everything he's got - his eyes, his chest hair, and even his camera - to contribute to his overall look. This is a studied look - not for a dude's dude, for sure. But if you're a poetic, artistic type who doesn't mind showing a bit of sensitivity and creativity, this is the look for you. I bet he has killer kicks too, like desert boots, artfully distressed bucks, or a pair of vintage brogues to finish off his masterful look.

This is an elegant, luxurious, smooth-operator look, great for winding down after work over martinis at a dimmed-down, upscale boutique hotel bar. Everything fits well. His grooming is impeccable, but deliberately not too finished or perfect. The refined pendant that follows the shape of the shirt opening draws the eye invitingly to the patch of exposed chest, and the substantial stainless watch (as far as I can discern from the photo) offers the heft needed to counterbalance the delicate pendant. Altogether, the look is sleek and masculine, with a sense of ease and an element of mojo ... like a black panther on a midnight prowl.

Here's another one that I think is a mighty fine look. Again, much of the same principles apply to this guy as the one before, such as the fit, the watch, and hair - except there's facial hair as a counterpoint to the shellacked 'do. This guy gives off more of an old-world gentlemanly vibe as opposed to the contemporary look above, but the same sleek, dashing qualities are all fully intact in spades.

CONCLUSION: Stop after the second button please, unless the buttons are spaced more tightly so that the third is high enough for you to unleash it safely and responsibly, without undoing your dignity.

As a general rule, don't buy shirts that, no matter how beautiful the fabric, have awkward button spacing - the ones in which the second button is placed too high or too low, mucking up the entire alignment. As a designer, I never understood how other designers could conceive of such an egregious oversight. Anyway, it happens, so it's up to you to actually try on your shirts to make sure you're satisfied with where the crucial second button lands.

Pick shirts in solid colors or in simple, classic patterns such as stripes and small checks that fit close to the body, but not tight. And notice how all these guys have their sleeves rolled up - congruence is key: Buttoned up sleeves don't quite harmonize with an unbuttoned collar, nor the "undone look" in general.

Maintain good grooming. Even in the heat, a freer, looser vibe never means sloppy - know the distinction. And lastly, it's about a certain attitude. Open, relaxed, generous - easy to be with, easy to work with, easy to like. That means being an all-around cool guy, who, while opening up a little chest, never forgets to keep an open heart and mind.

CLASS vs CRASS

Introducing Class vs Crass - a new theme on this blog that's going to be a bit different from the typical Do's & Don'ts category you've been seeing here. Do's & Don'ts will still be around as support to illustrate opposing examples of what works and what doesn't within a post's topic (e.g., the green check mark vs red "don't go there" sign).

Class vs Crass, however, is a different approach in that it specifically focuses on a style do or don't as the main event. It will then go deeper by showing you ways in which you can either screw up a right look, or rectify a wrong one - whichever side is featured.

Some definitions:

Class: Impressive stylishness; refinement in appearance or behavior.

Crass: Lacking sensitivity, refinement, or intelligence.

Like cool and tool, zero and hero, etc., the wordplay I like between class and crass is how the switch of one letter completely flips the meaning. Just as one letter-change can shift a word into its opposite meaning, all that's often needed in your wardrobe is a small shift in style perspective that takes you from a don't to a do, or vice versa. The point is, it's sometimes not so much what you wear, but how you wear it that makes the difference.

The key to great style, like all things, is in the details. So perhaps without needing a complete wardrobe overhaul, you may be able to redeem your style sins and regain some dignity by first learning to sharpen your fashion discernment, then applying your newfound wisdom toward making appropriate changes to your existing rotation.

Of course, clothes alone do not make the man. Class vs Crass not only define how you look, but more importantly, who you are. A man of true style and substance cultivates his character, his person, with much attention and discipline. The most beautiful clothes can only go so far in masking a less-than-beautiful personality, which gets very quickly exposed and trumps anything you ever wear. Great style, then, is dependent upon a great man, never the other way around. Toward that end, Class vs Crass will include posts on personal development, character building, and authenticity - qualities that never go out of style.

Class vs Crass will cover the whole package - the outer and inner workings of a true gentleman. As they say, "the more you know, the more you grow" ... into a class all your own.

Stay tuned....

To Pleat or Not to Pleat

...That is not the question - at least according to most fashion "authorities." The resounding chorus lately has been: "No pleats, please!"

Pleats are extremely unpopular right now. It conjures up images of middle management types in their ubiquitous Dockers wrinkle-free double-pleat chinos, with Blackberries clipped to their waists.

All the men's magazines have been dogging pleats for some time. Although I agree with most of the reasoning behind why pleats should be avoided given the current fashion trend, I can't say that they induce vomit the way they do for certain fashion types simply from a "pleat-sighting." Let me just start out by saying that, although I ain't a lover of pleats, I ain't a hater, either.

As with all things, no rule can be held absolute, and even if it could, it wouldn't apply to fashion anyway. Fashion by nature is about...well...changing fashions. So even though pleats are getting a beating these days, there will come a time when they'll rise above the fold again. It's just not their moment right now.

So let's start with the positive - why one should appreciate pleats. There is a purpose to why pleats exist in the universe in the first place. Like all classic sartorial details, pleats are engineered for a specific function, which is to allow the fabric on the pants to drape nicely. In the hands of a master tailor, pleats not only help pants drape beautifully, it makes your legs look leaner and longer. The purpose of pleats is to flatter - not cause civil offense.

I think the current state of disrespect for pleats have come largely due to it's misuse and plain bad taste perpetuated by mass pant manufacturers and the general public that weren't given any other options. Over time, bad pleat-wearing became the unfortunate norm.

But truth be told, there's not much in defense of pleats given the current mode of pleat-hatin'. So far I can only come up with 3 instances where pleats work:

1) You're tall and lean...preferably with a fat bank account: This is the only body type that makes pleats look incredibly good...or is that the other way around? Acquire beautifully crafted trousers made from fine, luxe fabrics with exquisite drape. Accessorize around the pant with quality shoes, belts, and perhaps a watch. In order to wear pleats convincingly, your entire look should mirror an uncommon elegance and refinement that oozes sophistication.

2) You're wide and/or heavy-set: Pleats can provide you with more room and comfort for all your thickness, and with artfully-placed pleats made from beautifully draped fabric, it may actually give the illusion of subtracting a little extra girth. Depending on your shape, there is a chance that flat-front pants may end up accentuating your thickness. On the flip side, if you wear stiffer pants like chinos where the pleats cause the pant to balloon out, not only will you obviously look wider, but worse, you'll look like you have womanly hips.

3) You're an advanced fashion type who possesses arcane style knowledge and an unshakable confidence in your arcane style knowledge: In other words, don't go there if you're not sure what this means. If you're of this ilk, I don't have to tell you that you can pull off  as many pleats as you dare to go. In fact, I'm sure you don't read this blog.

That's it guys. Given the current fashion environment, this means that for most of you, it's a good thing to avoid pleats altogether. Flat-front pants are modern, slimming, and will make you look younger. All from putting on a pair of pants? I say that's a great deal! Since you're going to wear pants anyway, you might as well wear ones that flatter and keep you current. And while you can't go wrong with flat-fronts, you can definitely - seriously - go wrong with pleats.

Coco Chanel said: "Elegance is refusal." So if elegance and relevance are on your agenda, remember that statment as it pertains to pleats and stay away from them - for the time being, anyway.