By now you know that the navy blazer is the item to have for summer dressing.
But then what? How do you make it work? What shirts, pants, shoes, belts - and in what colors - do you wear with that amazing navy jacket without looking like you belong to an alma mater or maritime association?
If these burning questions leave you sleepless at night, here are some tips on how to work that glorious navy jacket.
Basic - Solid and Sensational
Collared shirts in solid pale shades such as white, blue, pink, grey, lilac, mint and peach beautifully compliment navy. Wearing a tie? Break up the excess solid by introducing texture, such as a tone-on-tone patterned tie (topmost image) or a solid knit one - double points for patterned knit ties. Want a little more sleek? Go for the monochromatic look with a navy shirt, but undo the top button and ditch the tie - you want to partake in sophisticated ease, solid but well-ventilated - not like you got painted over with navy. For more causal days, knit pullovers in a crew or V in solid or heathered hues look right. Be sure it's the grown-up kind in fine cashmere, silk, or cotton - not the ones you wear to the gym.
Intermediate - Open to Possibilities
Patterned shirts in graphic stripes and checks in small to smallish-medium sizes on white backgrounds look modern, crisp and sharp. Prints aren't for everyone, but if you're a print man, a multi-colored, festive burst of color - chosen tastefully - will provide a playful pop of freshness ideal for summer. Here, you do the opposite of breaking up the monotony of solids (see "Basic"): You now tone down the patterns by wearing a dark, solid tie or a close-to-solid one - in which case a solid knit tie works here just as well. Try knit pullovers in brighter, more eye-catching solids, or in neutral/softer shades accented with tipping. For more visual interest, go for fine knits in thin-to-medium stripes.
Advanced - More is More
Layer pattern-upon-pattern-upon-texture-upon-color-upon-contrast. This one's a bold move, so tread carefully. As not to overdo it, which is very easy to do, designate only one or two bold elements (above, the tie and collar) and let the rest recede - although this patterned shirt is colorful, it's still soft and fine compared to the highly graphic tie. Knit tops are striking, in bold stripes or color blocks. At this level, it's about showmanship, displaying confidence and style - and knee-deep in dandy territory.
A sliver of solid pocket square (by square I mean square) adds final finesse to any of the above options.
Pants: Well-fitting pants in flat front, with straight legs on the slim or slightly tapered side is most current, with a slight break at the hem. If you're one for being in the fashion moment, show a flash of ankle. Colors in white, khaki, and grey are great choices. Jeans can run the gamut from super dark to white to washed/broken-in (see image of the guy with the baseball bat from the post "Spring Colors"). However, show some respect for the jacket and steer clear from too broken-in/distressed jeans, where there's rips and holes - reserve that for panhandling on Venice Beach.
Shoes and Belts: Generally, you want your shoe and belt colors to coordinate. They don't have to be a perfect match (that's boring anyway), but should complement each other. Depending on the occasion, your preference or mood, lace-ups and brogues, loafers and driving shoes, classic sneakers such as Stan Smiths and Jack Purcells are at your disposal. If you're into prep, or boats, there's always the Topsider, which has made a huge comeback lately. You don't need special belts for summer, but ones made from cloth or braided leather are especially appropriate for summer.
Navy with brown shoes and belts are a gorgeous combo - and you already know that. But you may be wondering: What about black shoes and belts with navy? Most people have come to think that black can never be friends with navy, but you know what? Done right, navy-and-black is one bad-ass duo. So how do you do it?
Wearing Navy-and-Black: First, in order to wear black shoes and belts with navy, having other black or blackish elements that link back to them help - this allows the eyes to move around the black parts instead of focusing on the one or two areas. Wearing a light shirt with dark jeans or pants is one option, although I don't recommend wearing black pants unless you know what you're doing. Another is to wear a black-and-white patterned shirt or sweater. If you wear a tie, wear a black one. Worn together with the navy jacket, white or grey pants work better with black shoes and accessories than khakis and other warm colors. You can see some examples of these techniques in the photos above and easily picture them with black shoes and belts.
A caveat: Successful navy-and-black dressing comes with a contingency - confidence. If you don't think you've got it yet, you have plenty to work on with navy-and-brown. Once you've masted that, you can slowly build up to the force that's navy-and-black. No rush. Just enjoy looking splendid every step of the way.
