VERITAS | Men's Style Blog

Classics, with a Twist

Two American old-time brands of two diverse pedigrees reinvent themselves this fall: Gant, with it's preppy heritage, and Woolrich, representing the great American outdoors. Both companies dug deep into their fabric and design archives to cook up new interpretations of their unique traditions and aesthetics.

Gant 60th Anniversary Collection

Last night I was at the Gant flagship store on Fifth Avenue for the company's 60th anniversary party. At first I wasn't all that excited about it, but I decided to go investigate their heavily pumped "60th Anniversary Collection," a line of 6 limited edition collector's item shirts sold exclusively at said flagship store here in New York and at Barneys New York, Beverly Hills, and Chicago. Heck, I might as well go while cocktails are served, right?

Honestly, despite the fact that Gant had much to contribute to the birth of the American man's shirt—introducing the button-down oxford shirt across the U.S, inventing the locker loop, the box pleat, and the button on the back collar (it keeps the tie in place)—I was pretty bored with their merch for a long long time...possibly always.

But to commemorate their 60th, Gant came up with these newly-rendered versions of their 6 vintage shirt styles. I inspected every single one of those shirts—and maybe it was the cocktail talking—but I actually really dug them.

I appreciated the luxe tweaks, like turning a woolly flannel shirt into a soft cotton-cashmere blend ("The Cashmere"), or transforming a casual Ivy League professorial button-down into a slim fit, übersleek Sea Island cotton number ("The Sea Island"). Then there are the unusual permutations of the classic oxford button-down: "The Rugger," a fusion between an oxford button-down and a rugby shirt, and "The Pullover," an oxford button-down-turned-leisure shirt (both pictured above). (Check out all the shirts here.)

These shirts would look mighty nice on ye old chaps with a pair of dark or subtly broken-in jeans, topped with a tweed or flannel sportcoat, or even a chunky cardigan. Finish with boots, lace-ups, sneakers, or one of those cool Sperry Top-Sider Chukkas.

Woolrich Woolen Mills

If the Gant shirts seem a little too affected and precious for a straight-shootin' man like yourself, there's the more rugged Woolrich Woolen Mills, a high-concept label for Woolrich—the company famous for its lumberjack-style woolly outdoor gear. As such, it's an outerwear/jacket-heavy collection that makes good use of the company's signature plaids and woolen fabrics, mixed in with some rustic knits.

Now I tried to digest what the website was saying about the collection, but it was so garbled with meaningless jargon that I gave up. I mean, I'm no novice in bullshit fashion-speak, but this one took it to another level. Excerpt: "It is a synergy between textile tradition and modern forms, where structural details have a fundamental role in terms of functionality." ... Say wha??? Bitch pu-leez.

But to sum up the 11-paragraph gibberish in one sentence, I think it was basically saying this: "Woolrich Woolen Mills is a design concept that honors the rich heritage and tradition of the Woolrich brand, reinterpreting it in modern ways that mirror its history and authenticity." Done. And done.

While a few individual pieces of the collection are alright, I find that the line as a whole is too heavy. I can't imagine a man wearing a wool shirt with a wool bow tie with a wool sportcoat and pants under a thick wool sweater under a wool peacoat. Verdict: Don't believe the hype. If you'd like to try it, pick one piece and de-woolify the rest of the look. (View the collection here.)

In the Navy

In menswear, countless sartorial inspirations have come directly from the military's rich history. And when the temperature starts to dip, we see that evident in the ubiquitous presence of trench coats and peacoats. Of course, these classic styles never get old. But every once in a while, there's proof that the wheel can be reinvented to striking results.

Case in point: This denim peacoat by Mister Freedom, a label that specializes in vintage-inspired designs, and available at J.Crew in exchange for $590. This handsome jacket is a "faithfully reproduced" denim version of a merchant Navy sailor's jacket from back in 1910, and "finished with historically-accurate details such as chain-stitched embroidery." Even the Japanese "'sc301 okinawa' denim - a dark indigo selvedge that's woven on old-school shuttle looms" - is just as vintage and authentic, making this jacket a perfect amalgam of traditional and modern, east and west, utility and total fashion statement - without losing anything in-between.

A jacket like this will blast you into the style stratosphere and set you far apart from all the other blokes hittin' the streets with their alright, but ho-hum gear. Anyone who beholds you in this wondrous jacket will have a hard time hiding their admiration, and women especially will be drawn to its magical powers, allowing you to personally benefit from its charms. This is a kind of jacket you wish you never have to take off, so try hanging out in places where there's a constant chill (except, perhaps, a meat locker) so you have every excuse not to take it off.

I understand that $590 can be a chunk of change. But do consider that this is a collector's item that will offer you pure wearing enjoyment and the admiration of both men and women, forever. In fact, come every fall, you'd be so psyched to get yet another chance to unleash your stilo, when all the other fellas are busy just trying to get by. Now that's what I call a healthy ROI.

The Fall Guy

To prepare for your glory this fall, the last couple of posts were about grooming and getting your body back in check. Yes, those are important topics, but you're probably wondering when I'm going to start talking fashion again. Guys, the time starts now, and I plan to deliver!

Always thinking of you, I did a walk-through of some major retailers to see what their first men's offerings were for fall. This is the time when you can spot right away the top trends that are going to make a big splash for the season. And as to be expected, there were a few hits as well as some serious misses.

So let's start with the flops...

Just Say No to the Giant Croc: Lacoste's latest polo comes in an oversized crocodile chest patch. The first time I saw it, I couldn't help but notice how out of proportion the gigantic croc looked on the shirt. And to make matters worse, upon closer examination, the blown-up croc looked just plain dopey. I cross-referenced the logo artwork with the regular small version and saw that they were basically the same. It's understandable that the original logo is too small to add much detail, but I would think that if they're going to blow up the thing, they'd want to fill up the extra space with some more stitch details.

My beef, however, wasn't even so much a matter of aesthetics, but rather the sad feeling that Lacoste completely missed the mark as a late adopter of the giant-logo-on-the-polo-shirt phenomenon that started a few years back when Polo Ralph Lauren came out with a monstrous pony logo emblazoned on their polo shirts. I think that conspicuous displays of designer logos are really tacky, so when I saw this dumb-looking croc in 12 different colorways, I just got tired. Lacoste gets zero points for originality, and it's really lame for them to shamelessly copy another label's (tasteless) idea ... and a few years too late at that. I normally like Lacoste for being a bit more refined than its American polo shirt makers (they're French, ya see), but this one's a total dud in my opinion. Guys, go ahead and get Lacoste polo shirts, but please stick to the original ones with the small logo if you don't want to risk looking ridiculous.

Flashy Jeans: I've never liked loud jeans on men (or women), but I'm so glad I'm still seeing lots of them around because that only means they're on their way out - for good. There's not much to say about these jeans except that they're tacky and makes you look like a bona fide fashion victim. The most current jean to wear now is a simpler style with a cleaner wash, dark rinse or raw denim, so stock up on those and ditch this bad idea once and for all.

Skull Overload: Don't get me wrong. I love skulls. I revere the profound iconographic influence they've had in culture, art, religion and life since the beginning of humankind. In fact, I dutifully wear a bracelet made from a row of silver skulls (designed by Jade Jagger, Mick's daughter) every day as a reminder of the impermanence of life, which helps me remember to appreciate the preciousness of every moment. That said, I feel that the skull motif has been so overused and abused, especially on t-shirts, that it's become just a nauseating trend. At this point, wearing graphics dripping with skulls doesn't make you edgy - it makes you look like every other dude who's trying to look cool, and failing miserably. And guys, if you're older than 25, please ... give up the dream. Like the skulls themselves, this is a trend that's totally dead. R.I.P.

And now, unto the good stuff...

Tartan Plaid: Remember the madras from summer? If certain schools of thought speculate that madras is a descendant, or at least a distant cousin, of the tartan, then this fall, we're going back to the roots. Think of tartans as patterns you see on a kilt, and you can picture exactly what I'm talking about. If there's one patterned shirt to buy this season, make it a tartan. It goes well with your favorite pair of jeans and look fantastic with another great piece you should look into - the cardigan. Go casual with rolled-up sleeves, a broken-in pair of jeans and sturdy shoes for an Americana vibe. Or dress it up with pristine dark jeans, dark cardigan and lace-ups. Make sure the shirt is slim cut so that you get the most modern look ... and no one mistakes you for a Christmas blanket.

Cardigans are hot this season, especially around now when it's not exactly cold enough to wear a coat. This is a great light-jacket alternative, as well as a more interesting way to layer under a jacket than your typical pullover sweater. I know a lot of you associate the cardigan with gramps, but the latest cardigans are anything but octogenarian. Get ones that fit close to your body in a refined, lightweight wool or cashmere, and you're money. Start with a solid color like grey or navy first, and once you get the hang of it, go for some bold stripes or at least some color-blocking. Wear it over a t-shirt or buttoned shirt, and don't button it up all the way - you want the look to be easy and relaxed, not Mr. Rogers.

Vests have been coming down the fashion pipeline for a few seasons now, but this fall, it's reached its tipping point. This is definitely a trendy piece, so if you want your vest to last for years, get one in a timeless fabric like wool or cotton, and with classic tailoring details - almost as if they would belong as part of a three-piece suit. Stay away from vests with graphic prints or embroidery - that's totally cheesy, and as my friend Chris would say, "That's Douche a la Ruche." Also, you're looking for a versatile everyday vest, so avoid anything too fancy, like silk brocade or ones with a shiny back - you know, the kind you're forced to wear when you're a part of a wedding party. Think of a vest like a blazer without sleeves, and wear it the way you would a blazer. Just like a blazer, you'll see that a vest is a great way to add a bit of polish and structure to your look ... without actually having to wear a blazer.

[Hover over images for designer info.]