VERITAS | Men's Style Blog

Isaia's 10 Style Tips

I've been running across some great style tips from Italian designer Gianluca Isaia this week. Fellas, take heed:

1) On Personal Style
"Personal style is exactly that: personal. It can be part gentleman and part dandy, but it is always unmistakably stylish. It’s important for men to wear what they are most comfortable in, but comfort does not mean messy. When a man is at a loss for personal style, there’s nothing wrong in looking for inspiration in the style of those you admire."

2) One Thing Every Man Needs
"The cornerstone of every wardrobe is a classic, well-tailored navy-blue suit. When paired with the right furnishings, this suit is appropriate for just about any occasion, from the boardroom to the dining room. And, if the mood strikes, the suit can be broken up into separates, providing versatile options that include a chic navy sport coat."

3) Choosing a Jacket
"Chances are, whether wearing a suit or a sport coat, most men have chosen a jacket that’s too big. Remember that jackets should fit like a second skin - moving with the body comfortably. There’s also a big difference between a machine-made garment and a tailored one, so it is worth investing in the latter. A man will know if he’s wearing a well-tailored garment because it is so light he won’t even feel as though he’s wearing a jacket."

4) A Variety of Jackets
"The first three jackets a man should invest in are single-breasted ones in solid navy, solid grey and one with a subtle pattern. Once he has those, he can add a double-breasted style. A double-breasted suit is really one of the most elegant looks a man can wear. Since it should always be worn completely buttoned up, the wearer will always look like a gentleman."

5) How to Wear Color
"A lot of men are intimidated by color, but that’s because they don’t realize what a tremendous asset it can be. The right amount of color in clothes can brighten your complexion and change your whole mood. For any man, an easy entrée into the world of color is a great tie, a pocket square or even a pair of socks."

6) Food & Fitness
"When I eat pasta or mozzarella di bufala, I chew extra hard to get in some exercise. I'm joking, but the point is I still enjoy food and I still look after myself. You need to be in shape, but don't be obsessed with your body. Enjoy, enjoy, enjoy."

7) Wild Sex and Suits
"In Neapolitan dialect, there's an expression, fare una sciammeria, which means to have a wild, passionate, crazy night of sex. They don't come easily—you need to make a bit of effort. To get one you need to invest money—take a woman out to the right restaurant, buy her flowers, do vacations. The money spent will bring you pleasure. It's the same with a suit—you need to spend money to get the most from one."

8) Shoes and Elegance
"You don't always have to wear wing tips with suits. In the summer, I wear sandals, handmade in Capri, to make my suits a little less dramatic. As long as you wear something naturally, it can never lose its elegance."

9) Shirts on a Plane
"You can recognize a good shirt immediately on a plane. If a guy, after placing his luggage in the overhead storage, has to tuck his shirt back in his pants, then it's not a well-made shirt. A good shirt has a high armhole that fits right under your armpit. It gives you more movement and guarantees the shirt will always stay in place."

10) On Jewelry
"A man can wear a ring, a bracelet, or even a necklace—any jewelry he wants. What's important is that the object become a part of him, or else it's going to clash."

[Tips 1-5 from Style Rules, Tips 6-10 from Details]

In the Navy

In menswear, countless sartorial inspirations have come directly from the military's rich history. And when the temperature starts to dip, we see that evident in the ubiquitous presence of trench coats and peacoats. Of course, these classic styles never get old. But every once in a while, there's proof that the wheel can be reinvented to striking results.

Case in point: This denim peacoat by Mister Freedom, a label that specializes in vintage-inspired designs, and available at J.Crew in exchange for $590. This handsome jacket is a "faithfully reproduced" denim version of a merchant Navy sailor's jacket from back in 1910, and "finished with historically-accurate details such as chain-stitched embroidery." Even the Japanese "'sc301 okinawa' denim - a dark indigo selvedge that's woven on old-school shuttle looms" - is just as vintage and authentic, making this jacket a perfect amalgam of traditional and modern, east and west, utility and total fashion statement - without losing anything in-between.

A jacket like this will blast you into the style stratosphere and set you far apart from all the other blokes hittin' the streets with their alright, but ho-hum gear. Anyone who beholds you in this wondrous jacket will have a hard time hiding their admiration, and women especially will be drawn to its magical powers, allowing you to personally benefit from its charms. This is a kind of jacket you wish you never have to take off, so try hanging out in places where there's a constant chill (except, perhaps, a meat locker) so you have every excuse not to take it off.

I understand that $590 can be a chunk of change. But do consider that this is a collector's item that will offer you pure wearing enjoyment and the admiration of both men and women, forever. In fact, come every fall, you'd be so psyched to get yet another chance to unleash your stilo, when all the other fellas are busy just trying to get by. Now that's what I call a healthy ROI.

Think Pink

After all that talk about the pink shirt on the previous post, it's now time for some practical applications. Whether solid or patterned, don't just think pink, wear pink! Here are some simple suggestions....

Summer Friday: One of the few still left with a job? Instead of merely feeling grateful enough to have a job, why not use this opportunity to get ahead? The competition is stiffer than ever in retaining cubicle turf, and now is certainly not the time to schmuck around in standard-issue work attire - especially on those dubious days dubbed "Casual Friday." Make your presence at the office count with optimistic pink stripes, dark jeans, and an unlined cotton/linen blend blazer that keeps you well-ventilated and looking sharp, not stiff. If you need to wear a tie, go for a knit or cotton woven tie in a solid or pattern. Lose the tie when heading out to cocktail hour and you might end up hooking up with something more than a couple of gin and tonics.

Of course, if you want to wear this shirt with a suit, just throw on a navy, khaki, or light-to-medium grey suit and you'll emit grace and charm at the office, summer weddings, job interviews, and wherever else you go.

Weekend Warrior: It's time to drop off the spread collar dress shirt at the cleaners for the weekend and revel in a sporty, playful shirt. Button-down collar optional, but recommended. Wear it with white jeans (or any pair of jeans, really, but white is the summer jean), and classic kicks such as Converse Chuck Taylors or Adidas Stan Smiths. White jeans + white sneakers = white hot. A softly structured nylon messenger bag is uncomplicated and laid-back, while holding all your essentials for weekend errands or just hanging out. It's also roomy enough to pack a lightweight navy cardigan with accent trimming in case your weekend excursion runs well into the brisk night.

Lazy Sunday: This is your time to chill out, maybe even to recuperate from last night's debauchery. To reflect this state of mind, your shirt shouldn't be perfectly pressed nor (gasp!) starched (bad boy!). Save that for Monday, and instead grab a sport shirt that looks like you fished it straight from the dryer, with its subtle puckers and soft crinkles intact. Unless it's way too wrinkly - you want to look effortless and unaffected, not sloppy - steam it out a bit just enough to create a carefree, undone, artfully disheveled aesthetic. In order for you to get to your local brunch joint for some eggs, and more importantly, Bloody Marys (hair of the dog, you say?), you'll need to wear clothes and shoes anyway. So why not make it a fresh, rosy shirt to add some color back to your face, simple chino shorts (or pants), and some easy-on-easy-off slip-ons? Add on a tri-color webbed belt for a tasteful jolt of color, and good luck trying to keep a low profile with those handsome movie star shades.

[Hover over images for brand and price info.]

Navy Blazer, Part II: Work It Good

By now you know that the navy blazer is the item to have for summer dressing.

But then what? How do you make it work? What shirts, pants, shoes, belts - and in what colors - do you wear with that amazing navy jacket without looking like you belong to an alma mater or maritime association?

If these burning questions leave you sleepless at night, here are some tips on how to work that glorious navy jacket.

Basic - Solid and Sensational
Collared shirts in solid pale shades such as white, blue, pink, grey, lilac, mint and peach beautifully compliment navy. Wearing a tie? Break up the excess solid by introducing texture, such as a tone-on-tone patterned tie (topmost image) or a solid knit one - double points for patterned knit ties. Want a little more sleek? Go for the monochromatic look with a navy shirt, but undo the top button and ditch the tie - you want to partake in sophisticated ease, solid but well-ventilated - not like you got painted over with navy. For more causal days, knit pullovers in a crew or V in solid or heathered hues look right. Be sure it's the grown-up kind in fine cashmere, silk, or cotton - not the ones you wear to the gym.

Intermediate - Open to Possibilities
Patterned shirts in graphic stripes and checks in small to smallish-medium sizes on white backgrounds look modern, crisp and sharp. Prints aren't for everyone, but if you're a print man, a multi-colored, festive burst of color - chosen tastefully - will provide a playful pop of freshness ideal for summer. Here, you do the opposite of breaking up the monotony of solids (see "Basic"): You now tone down the patterns by wearing a dark, solid tie or a close-to-solid one - in which case a solid knit tie works here just as well. Try knit pullovers in brighter, more eye-catching solids, or in neutral/softer shades accented with tipping. For more visual interest, go for fine knits in thin-to-medium stripes.

Advanced - More is More
Layer pattern-upon-pattern-upon-texture-upon-color-upon-contrast. This one's a bold move, so tread carefully. As not to overdo it, which is very easy to do, designate only one or two bold elements (above, the tie and collar) and let the rest recede - although this patterned shirt is colorful, it's still soft and fine compared to the highly graphic tie. Knit tops are striking, in bold stripes or color blocks. At this level, it's about showmanship, displaying confidence and style - and knee-deep in dandy territory.

A sliver of solid pocket square (by square I mean square) adds final finesse to any of the above options.

Pants: Well-fitting pants in flat front, with straight legs on the slim or slightly tapered side is most current, with a slight break at the hem. If you're one for being in the fashion moment, show a flash of ankle. Colors in white, khaki, and grey are great choices. Jeans can run the gamut from super dark to white to washed/broken-in (see image of the guy with the baseball bat from the post "Spring Colors"). However, show some respect for the jacket and steer clear from too broken-in/distressed jeans, where there's rips and holes - reserve that for panhandling on Venice Beach.

Shoes and Belts: Generally, you want your shoe and belt colors to coordinate. They don't have to be a perfect match (that's boring anyway), but should complement each other. Depending on the occasion, your preference or mood, lace-ups and brogues, loafers and driving shoes, classic sneakers such as Stan Smiths and Jack Purcells are at your disposal. If you're into prep, or boats, there's always the Topsider, which has made a huge comeback lately. You don't need special belts for summer, but ones made from cloth or braided leather are especially appropriate for summer.

Navy with brown shoes and belts are a gorgeous combo - and you already know that. But you may be wondering: What about black shoes and belts with navy? Most people have come to think that black can never be friends with navy, but you know what? Done right, navy-and-black is one bad-ass duo. So how do you do it?

Wearing Navy-and-Black: First, in order to wear black shoes and belts with navy, having other black or blackish elements that link back to them help - this allows the eyes to move around the black parts instead of focusing on the one or two areas. Wearing a light shirt with dark jeans or pants is one option, although I don't recommend wearing black pants unless you know what you're doing. Another is to wear a black-and-white patterned shirt or sweater. If you wear a tie, wear a black one. Worn together with the navy jacket, white or grey pants work better with black shoes and accessories than khakis and other warm colors. You can see some examples of these techniques in the photos above and easily picture them with black shoes and belts.

A caveat: Successful navy-and-black dressing comes with a contingency - confidence. If you don't think you've got it yet, you have plenty to work on with navy-and-brown. Once you've masted that, you can slowly build up to the force that's navy-and-black. No rush. Just enjoy looking splendid every step of the way.

Navy Blazer, Part I: Give Up the Gold

As mentioned on the previous post, the navy sport jacket is the most versatile article of clothing to top off much of anything you wear in warm seasons. Not as serious as black, brighter navy shades feel vibrant, cool and crisp for hot days and nights, while darker navy exudes the gravitas that you may miss from wearing black, but with a bit more life blown into it.

Again, if you find yourself unable to deviate from black, start out with a deep, inky navy that looks dark navy during the day and almost black at night - consider it as training wheels before you advance to a true navy, which should clearly be more blue-cast than black. But even if you never get past this gorgeous shade of midnight, it doesn't matter - you're still wearing navy, and a deep, rich one at that.

No navy blazer talk would be complete without the gold button discussion. I wouldn't completely dismiss them, but they are definitely conventional. It could be argued that it's a classic, but unless you work for the GOP or run within/work in a very conservative and/or exclusive setting, the look will come across out-of-date and boring for most guys who want to show some personality and modernity. Unless you can somehow work it subversively as a fashion statement, it wouldn't fly - and most guys don't have enough fashion savvy to pull it off in this way, anyway. In defense of the gold button though, I would say that the guy below looks handsome and presentable, but from a style and originality perspective, all he's getting from me at best is..."Meh."

If you absolutely love those metal buttons, the only thing I can suggest is to make the switch from shiny gold to matte brass or nickel. Better yet, if you like the look and fit of your navy blazer and can part with the gold buttons, get them replaced with plastic or corozo buttons in a matching shade of navy -  you'll feel like you have a brand new jacket.

Now that you've got a rockin' navy blazer in order, up next: How to work it, and work it good!