VERITAS | Men's Style Blog

Wear a Tux Like a Leading Man

 

The Oscars. It came. It went. And I don’t give a crap. But what I do give a crap about is the subject of men’s formal wear, which I’ll be covering in the next 3 posts.

Today I’ll talk about my Oscar pick for Best Dressed Man: Daniel Day-Lewis.

Daniel Day-Lewis is hands down (and feet down, and ass down) the winner of the night for embodying an impeccable formal presentation in his midnight blue Domenico Vacca tuxedo. And how apropos of him to also receive the Academy’s grand honor for Best Actor in a Leading Role. By the way, he now holds the record for the most golden statuettes in the category. Congratulations.

It’s becoming clear that I have a ‘thing’ for two things: the midnight blue shawl-collar tux and leading actors named Daniel who wear them. (If you want to see me squirm over the other Daniel, check out: “Holiday Gear: Tux Deluxe.”)

Apart from the leading man midnight blue color that takes a subtle yet glamorous departure from the sea of nominee blacks, what makes Mr. Day-Lewis’s look so absofuckinglutely right?

Let’s go down the list....

Jacket: The shawl collar has always been my favorite for its classicism and elegance. Daniel’s slimmed down version is very in-the-moment, while complementing his elongated features. Everything about him is long and lean, from his face down to his feet. The linear quality of the slim shawl collar harmonizes well with his body type.

The black accent on the collar works well to add contrast and dimension to this strict streamlined look, as well as to pick up the black of the bow tie. This creates a clean, precise frame over the backdrop of the white shirt to neatly direct the focus to his face, which is a man’s most identifiable and expressive feature. And his is just... lovely.

The chest pocket is also cut with the same black fabric as the collar, a quiet way to showcase a novel design detail. In fact, I had to take a closer look to make sure it was the pocket welt and not a black pocket square. In effect, this clever feature does double duty as functional pocket opening and decorative pocket square, further streamlining the look.

The single button is not only the ideal style for a formal jacket, it also creates a low button stance that cuts a deep V onto his torso, complementing his long lines. Anyone who wishes to create the look of a longer, slimmer torso would do well with lower button stance jackets. Button stance is the term used for the position of the jacket’s top button.

Shirt: Perfect in its minimalism – a quiet plain front with a simple turndown collar. No extras like pleating or embellished studs. It’s just a pared down yet elegant canvas to highlight his face and upper body. Also note the cuffs peeking out – this detail is never an option when wearing a shirt and jacket, as the extra sliver of cuff keeps the shirt and jacket visually linked, creating balance. It looks like he has a good inch showing instead of the usual half inch, thereby doubling his confidence and flair.

Trousers: Tuxedo trousers traditionally have a ribbon running down the outer side of each leg, made from the same fabric as the jacket’s satin or grosgrain lapel. Daniel took a pass, instead opting again for a sleek, solid colored trim-cut trouser that accentuates his lean lines. The sharply-pressed creases at the center of the legs create an even more severe linearity that further accentuates his vertical stature. The high hem with a minimal break seamlessly connects to his shoes, creating a continues flow.

Shoes: Sleek slip-ons in patent/high-polish leather. With no extraneous laces or bulk, it blends in beautifully with his trousers.

Accessories: Nothing more than a simple black blow tie in perfect proportion to his face and collar, and one single statement jewelry – his wedding band. For a look this stunning, nothing more is needed – or wanted.

Lastly, I want to comment on one thing that Daniel Day-Lewis possesses that’s both the essential foundation and final touch to his refined appearance. And that is his character. This outrageously talented man embodies poise and finesse alongside a deeply genuine humility, making him a man of incredible integrity, decency and grace. I believe that a cultivated, attractive inner quality is the key to appearing cultivated and attractive to others. So after all that I’ve said on this post regarding the outer, I leave you now with the most important ingredient for your image and style – yourself. Everything else is just icing on the cake.

On my next post, I’ll talk about some more impressive stars who shined in their tuxes on Oscar night.

[Images: Getty]

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A Beginner’s Guide to Buying Luxury Watches

Hey Guys – I’ve got a treat for you. I’m handing today’s post over to a guest blogger and new friend, Leo Parker, who’s a luxury watch expert. He’ll take you through the fundamentals of selecting a quality timepiece, broken down by budget. Enjoy.

 

Luxury watches are, unquestionably, one of the ultimate status symbols for any man. It’s an industry of exceptional craftsmanship, with many prestigious brands vying for the attention of style-conscious men the world over. Needless to say, if you’re new to the world of high-end timepieces, it can be quite daunting to know where to begin. So let me be your Sherpa on your journey to find the perfect luxury timepiece for you.

The main thing that you’ll need to consider when it comes to purchasing a luxury watch will be how much you’re looking to spend and, fortunately, there’s a watch out there to suit different budgets. Let’s take a look at some examples of entry-level, mid-level and top-of-the-range luxury watches to showcase the various timepieces that are available on the market.

 

Entry-Level Luxury Watches

An excellent example of an entry-level luxury watch would be 88 Rue Du Rhone. The Swiss brand offers an exceptional array of timepieces for an astounding price, given the quality of craftsmanship that goes into their creations. Although 88 Rue Du Rhone watches are newcomers to the luxury timepiece scene, they come from industry pedigree, for they were developed by the grandsons to the founder of another established Swiss brand, Raymond Weil.

88 Rue Du Rhone watches, such as the breathtaking 42mm chronograph timepiece above, typically retail between $750 - $1,500, which, for a luxury timepiece, sits at the entry-level end of the spectrum. Other notable brands that fall under this category of accessible luxury timepieces include the likes of Bulova, Accutron, Longines and Raymond Weil.

 

Mid-Level Luxury Watches

The mid-level bracket of luxury watches is more comprehensive, and most watchmakers will have timepieces that fall within this category. These beauties will typically set you back between $2,000 - $5,000, and the Montblanc, TAG Heuer and Bell & Ross shown above retail in that range. Other notable brands in this category include: Bremont, Baume & Mercier and IWC.

As you can see, there are some spectacular timepieces which can be picked up in the mid-tier bracket of luxury watches. If your finances allow, you should always try to stretch your budget as far as possible, as the craftsmanship of high-end timepieces become more exemplary as prices increase.

Luxurious and flawlessly manufactured, all the watches that fall in the mid-level bracket will definitely score you plenty of points in the style stakes, serving as an excellent status symbol for those looking to ramp up their sartorial standing.

 

High-End Luxury Watches

For those in the enviable position of money being no object, there is a spectacular array of high-end timepieces on the market which is, quite frankly, jaw-dropping. An impressive showcase would include the phenomenal watches above from Audemars Piguet, Cartier and Zenith, which will set you back in excess of $30,000. 

The design and craftsmanship of this bracket of timepiece truly is a cut above – you’ll definitely witness a difference in quality for such a purchase. They’ll invariably boast features not typically found on watches lower down the spectrum, such as precious metals, jewels, more intricate mechanisms and eye-catching tourbillons, to name but a few.

So, if you’re planning to purchase a luxury watch this year, this should hopefully give you a little insight into the types of watches to adorn your wrist according to your budget. Luxury timepieces really are a fantastic status symbol, and it’s a good idea to do some research into the different brands and their backstory to find the ideal timepiece to suit your personal style and sensibility.

 

*Guest contributor Leo is a luxury lifestyle blogger who has a love of the finer things in life. He has a particular affinity for fine timepieces from the likes of Breitling, IWC and TAG Heuer even though, lamentably, he can’t afford the watches he so often writes about. He regularly writes on behalf of a number of men's lifestyle and luxury blogs and magazines.

[All images used with permission from The Watch Gallery.]

A Star Is Reborn

Have you noticed that everything made back in the days, from cars to shoes, was created with a distinctive attention to detail and designed to last much longer than the ones made today? That’s why they become classics, withstanding the test of time and the fickle fluctuations of trends.

Enter the Converse 1970s Chuck Taylor All Star Collection – iconic shoes indeed.

First produced in 1917 and the highest-selling basketball shoe in history, it was named after the basketball player Chuck Taylor, who eventually became the sneaker’s spokesperson in the ‘20s. Hailed by rockers, basketball legends, and youth culture ever since, the Chucks haven’t faded in its impressive versatility and pop culture relevance spanning almost 100 years. 

And now these great kicks got even better with just the right touch of tweaking taken from its ‘70s specs. And like pretty much everything made back in the days, the subtle yet thoughtful details of yesteryear make for improvements on a classic that apparently seemed to not need any, until now.

The subtle changes in detail will probably not be readily noticeable at first glance, but they will provide a finer aesthetic appeal, as well as more comfort and durability to the shoes.

The modifications: 

• Slightly higher foxing – that’s the strip of rubber that joins the upper and sole of the shoe. All Stars have a distinctive single stripe running along it.

• Added cushioning and a roomier toe box create more comfort.

• A heavier canvas upper results in more durability and longevity.

• Cosmetic stitching on the sidewall and a vintage plate on the heel set the shoe apart from its contemporary versions.

The black and white ones are in stores now, with more original colors arriving over the next several months. They retail at a reasonable $70-85 USD, so if you’re a Chucks fan, be sure to help yourself to a few pairs of an original that just got even more original.

Be a Hot Date in 24 Hours (Part 4 of 4)

 

[Catch up on the previous post: "Be a Hot Date in 24 Hours" (Part 3 of 4).]

Today is Valentine’s Day. Your scheduled date: T minus 6 hours 59 minutes. The time you still have to acquire something new to wear? T minus zero. If you don’t know what that means, it means that you’re shit out of luck.

Have no fear, my third tip is here.

Tip 3: The Mash-Up – Party on the outside, business on the inside.

Although the mullet is never advisable in this blog, there’s something to be said for its principle (“business in the front, party in the back”). The idea of juxtaposing contrasting elements makes for a clever look that not only complements the best of both casual and dressy worlds, it creates something altogether different – a style gestalt, if you will.

Now here’s the thing. This is not the type of ensemble that’s appropriate for a fancy occasion. However, gathering from the fact that you haven’t had any forethought in your attire until the day of the national date day, I take it that you haven’t had the foresight to score in advance that elegant dinner reservation either.

It’s okay. You and your date aren’t the type to get all wadded up in formality anyway. You just want to kick it somewhere and have a good time in each other’s company, keep it impromptu. Dinner reservations? Bleh... you’ll find a cute little someplace to stumble into during the course of your leisurely romantic stroll.

If that’s you, this is the perfect look. It's also good for outdoor daytime dates, or any occasion that calls for a balance of sporty and proper. It offers casual functionality, comfort and warmth over a solid underpinning that says that you’re a qualified, respectful man of aesthetics and detail.

The look is casual yet well put-together, fun but never juvenile, spontaneous without being careless, fresh with a nod to heritage. It’s just a pleasant way to present yourself as creative and respectful at the same time.

And your girl will dig it.

There are two phases to putting this look together. You should already have all the components in your closet, so it’s simply about layering them on methodically.

Phase One: Build a solid foundation.

Start with a dress shirt: If you don’t own a dress shirt, any well-pressed, crisp sport shirt will do. It helps if the shirt has a pattern or texture to them, like a stripe, check or small-to-medium plaid (it adds dimension), but a solid white shirt would work equally well and provide a clean contrast to the rest of the casual elements.

Wrap on a tie: The tie can be any material that you like, in any color or pattern that creates an interesting complement to the shirt first, then in relation to the overall outfit. The only advice is to make sure the tie is on the narrow side. If you only have conventional ties that are wide, it’s okay –  the point is to use what you already own, and the widest parts will be hidden under the layers anyway. Just make sure that you employ the four-in-hand knot so that it stays tight and small.

Phase Two: Pile it on.

This doesn’t require too much explanation. All you have to do now is to layer on a few casual items you normally wear, like a sweater or hoodie, under a denim jacket, under a sport jacket or blazer, and under a coat or down vest. For your bottom half, go for a clean pair of dark jeans or trim chinos.

Finally, like your up-for-anything outfit, keep an equally positive attitude and open mind, and simply enjoy where the day, or evening, takes the two of you.

Be a Hot Date in 24 Hours (Part 3 of 4)

 

[Catch up on the previous post: "Be a Hot Date in 24 Hours" (Part 2 of 4).]

Moving along....

Tip 2: Throw on a cardigan in place of a jacket.

This works well for a more casual setting such as a cozy table for two at a low-key neighborhood restaurant. It also works well for an intimate at-home dinner – where you're the cook.

I can’t overemphasize how much women are all over guys who are masters in the kitchen. But if you can't cook or don't have the time to prepare a romantic meal on the fly? Here's an advice:  It's okay that you don't actually cook anything yourself. Again, it goes back to the thoughtfulness thing: just make it look like you gave a shit – a lot of shit – that’s all.

So this is what you do to show her that you care without slaving over the stove and ensuring that the meal wins her approval – and her heart: You order takeout of her favorite dish from her favorite restaurant, heat them properly and serve them on nice dinnerware – real men have these. Do you?

If not, leave work a bit early and rush to Crate and Barrel before dinner arrives. While you're at it, make sure that you also have all the accoutrements for a tastefully – and romantically – dressed table. Also, don't forget candles, which, along with a killer playlist, are never options – they're musts.

This move will guarantee high marks in her mind, mainly that you were thoughtful. That you paid attention to the food she enjoys. That you paid attention to the presentation. That you paid attention to the details conducive to a romantic mood.

Now, let’s not forget to pay attention to your get-up.

Cardigans have been huge over the past few years, so I’m assuming that you already own at least one. Although this is a laid-back look that goes well with a sport shirt and a pair of jeans, the cardigan by its nature will elevate the casualness to a relaxed elegance that’s at once easy and refined.

The beauty of the cardigan is that it makes a man look instantly worldly, the kind of man whom women describe as handsome, intelligent, sophisticated. In a word – a gentleman. Even if you possess none of these qualities, you can at least look the part. The goodly cardigan, my man, will get you there in spades.

Cardigans come in many different weights, textures and styles. For the purpose of simplicity, let’s divide them into two categories: chunky and fine.

The chunky cardigan is obviously heavier and more textured with thick buttons or toggles, giving it more of an old-world jacket feel, like a tweed sport coat. Pair it with a shirt that evokes a similar old-world vibe such as denim, chambray, or oxford, then anchor it all with a pair of stiff, dark jeans for a dash of modernity.  

The fine cardigan is lighter in weight, with thin, simple button closures, and usually comes in solid colors. If the chunky is an alternative to a vintage sport coat, the fine cardigan is more like a sleek blazer. Its minimalist lines and slim fit are well-suited for a contemporary look. Contrast it with a tightly-patterned shirt and a pair of jeans – its color, fade and wash will determine the overall dressiness or casualness of the look.

And as always, for a little more propriety and flair, go ahead and tie one on.

 

Next up: The fourth and last installment of “Be a Hot Date in 24 Hours” (Part 4 of 4).