VERITAS | Men's Style Blog

Isaia's 10 Style Tips

I've been running across some great style tips from Italian designer Gianluca Isaia this week. Fellas, take heed:

1) On Personal Style
"Personal style is exactly that: personal. It can be part gentleman and part dandy, but it is always unmistakably stylish. It’s important for men to wear what they are most comfortable in, but comfort does not mean messy. When a man is at a loss for personal style, there’s nothing wrong in looking for inspiration in the style of those you admire."

2) One Thing Every Man Needs
"The cornerstone of every wardrobe is a classic, well-tailored navy-blue suit. When paired with the right furnishings, this suit is appropriate for just about any occasion, from the boardroom to the dining room. And, if the mood strikes, the suit can be broken up into separates, providing versatile options that include a chic navy sport coat."

3) Choosing a Jacket
"Chances are, whether wearing a suit or a sport coat, most men have chosen a jacket that’s too big. Remember that jackets should fit like a second skin - moving with the body comfortably. There’s also a big difference between a machine-made garment and a tailored one, so it is worth investing in the latter. A man will know if he’s wearing a well-tailored garment because it is so light he won’t even feel as though he’s wearing a jacket."

4) A Variety of Jackets
"The first three jackets a man should invest in are single-breasted ones in solid navy, solid grey and one with a subtle pattern. Once he has those, he can add a double-breasted style. A double-breasted suit is really one of the most elegant looks a man can wear. Since it should always be worn completely buttoned up, the wearer will always look like a gentleman."

5) How to Wear Color
"A lot of men are intimidated by color, but that’s because they don’t realize what a tremendous asset it can be. The right amount of color in clothes can brighten your complexion and change your whole mood. For any man, an easy entrée into the world of color is a great tie, a pocket square or even a pair of socks."

6) Food & Fitness
"When I eat pasta or mozzarella di bufala, I chew extra hard to get in some exercise. I'm joking, but the point is I still enjoy food and I still look after myself. You need to be in shape, but don't be obsessed with your body. Enjoy, enjoy, enjoy."

7) Wild Sex and Suits
"In Neapolitan dialect, there's an expression, fare una sciammeria, which means to have a wild, passionate, crazy night of sex. They don't come easily—you need to make a bit of effort. To get one you need to invest money—take a woman out to the right restaurant, buy her flowers, do vacations. The money spent will bring you pleasure. It's the same with a suit—you need to spend money to get the most from one."

8) Shoes and Elegance
"You don't always have to wear wing tips with suits. In the summer, I wear sandals, handmade in Capri, to make my suits a little less dramatic. As long as you wear something naturally, it can never lose its elegance."

9) Shirts on a Plane
"You can recognize a good shirt immediately on a plane. If a guy, after placing his luggage in the overhead storage, has to tuck his shirt back in his pants, then it's not a well-made shirt. A good shirt has a high armhole that fits right under your armpit. It gives you more movement and guarantees the shirt will always stay in place."

10) On Jewelry
"A man can wear a ring, a bracelet, or even a necklace—any jewelry he wants. What's important is that the object become a part of him, or else it's going to clash."

[Tips 1-5 from Style Rules, Tips 6-10 from Details]

In the Navy

In menswear, countless sartorial inspirations have come directly from the military's rich history. And when the temperature starts to dip, we see that evident in the ubiquitous presence of trench coats and peacoats. Of course, these classic styles never get old. But every once in a while, there's proof that the wheel can be reinvented to striking results.

Case in point: This denim peacoat by Mister Freedom, a label that specializes in vintage-inspired designs, and available at J.Crew in exchange for $590. This handsome jacket is a "faithfully reproduced" denim version of a merchant Navy sailor's jacket from back in 1910, and "finished with historically-accurate details such as chain-stitched embroidery." Even the Japanese "'sc301 okinawa' denim - a dark indigo selvedge that's woven on old-school shuttle looms" - is just as vintage and authentic, making this jacket a perfect amalgam of traditional and modern, east and west, utility and total fashion statement - without losing anything in-between.

A jacket like this will blast you into the style stratosphere and set you far apart from all the other blokes hittin' the streets with their alright, but ho-hum gear. Anyone who beholds you in this wondrous jacket will have a hard time hiding their admiration, and women especially will be drawn to its magical powers, allowing you to personally benefit from its charms. This is a kind of jacket you wish you never have to take off, so try hanging out in places where there's a constant chill (except, perhaps, a meat locker) so you have every excuse not to take it off.

I understand that $590 can be a chunk of change. But do consider that this is a collector's item that will offer you pure wearing enjoyment and the admiration of both men and women, forever. In fact, come every fall, you'd be so psyched to get yet another chance to unleash your stilo, when all the other fellas are busy just trying to get by. Now that's what I call a healthy ROI.

The Fall Guy

To prepare for your glory this fall, the last couple of posts were about grooming and getting your body back in check. Yes, those are important topics, but you're probably wondering when I'm going to start talking fashion again. Guys, the time starts now, and I plan to deliver!

Always thinking of you, I did a walk-through of some major retailers to see what their first men's offerings were for fall. This is the time when you can spot right away the top trends that are going to make a big splash for the season. And as to be expected, there were a few hits as well as some serious misses.

So let's start with the flops...

Just Say No to the Giant Croc: Lacoste's latest polo comes in an oversized crocodile chest patch. The first time I saw it, I couldn't help but notice how out of proportion the gigantic croc looked on the shirt. And to make matters worse, upon closer examination, the blown-up croc looked just plain dopey. I cross-referenced the logo artwork with the regular small version and saw that they were basically the same. It's understandable that the original logo is too small to add much detail, but I would think that if they're going to blow up the thing, they'd want to fill up the extra space with some more stitch details.

My beef, however, wasn't even so much a matter of aesthetics, but rather the sad feeling that Lacoste completely missed the mark as a late adopter of the giant-logo-on-the-polo-shirt phenomenon that started a few years back when Polo Ralph Lauren came out with a monstrous pony logo emblazoned on their polo shirts. I think that conspicuous displays of designer logos are really tacky, so when I saw this dumb-looking croc in 12 different colorways, I just got tired. Lacoste gets zero points for originality, and it's really lame for them to shamelessly copy another label's (tasteless) idea ... and a few years too late at that. I normally like Lacoste for being a bit more refined than its American polo shirt makers (they're French, ya see), but this one's a total dud in my opinion. Guys, go ahead and get Lacoste polo shirts, but please stick to the original ones with the small logo if you don't want to risk looking ridiculous.

Flashy Jeans: I've never liked loud jeans on men (or women), but I'm so glad I'm still seeing lots of them around because that only means they're on their way out - for good. There's not much to say about these jeans except that they're tacky and makes you look like a bona fide fashion victim. The most current jean to wear now is a simpler style with a cleaner wash, dark rinse or raw denim, so stock up on those and ditch this bad idea once and for all.

Skull Overload: Don't get me wrong. I love skulls. I revere the profound iconographic influence they've had in culture, art, religion and life since the beginning of humankind. In fact, I dutifully wear a bracelet made from a row of silver skulls (designed by Jade Jagger, Mick's daughter) every day as a reminder of the impermanence of life, which helps me remember to appreciate the preciousness of every moment. That said, I feel that the skull motif has been so overused and abused, especially on t-shirts, that it's become just a nauseating trend. At this point, wearing graphics dripping with skulls doesn't make you edgy - it makes you look like every other dude who's trying to look cool, and failing miserably. And guys, if you're older than 25, please ... give up the dream. Like the skulls themselves, this is a trend that's totally dead. R.I.P.

And now, unto the good stuff...

Tartan Plaid: Remember the madras from summer? If certain schools of thought speculate that madras is a descendant, or at least a distant cousin, of the tartan, then this fall, we're going back to the roots. Think of tartans as patterns you see on a kilt, and you can picture exactly what I'm talking about. If there's one patterned shirt to buy this season, make it a tartan. It goes well with your favorite pair of jeans and look fantastic with another great piece you should look into - the cardigan. Go casual with rolled-up sleeves, a broken-in pair of jeans and sturdy shoes for an Americana vibe. Or dress it up with pristine dark jeans, dark cardigan and lace-ups. Make sure the shirt is slim cut so that you get the most modern look ... and no one mistakes you for a Christmas blanket.

Cardigans are hot this season, especially around now when it's not exactly cold enough to wear a coat. This is a great light-jacket alternative, as well as a more interesting way to layer under a jacket than your typical pullover sweater. I know a lot of you associate the cardigan with gramps, but the latest cardigans are anything but octogenarian. Get ones that fit close to your body in a refined, lightweight wool or cashmere, and you're money. Start with a solid color like grey or navy first, and once you get the hang of it, go for some bold stripes or at least some color-blocking. Wear it over a t-shirt or buttoned shirt, and don't button it up all the way - you want the look to be easy and relaxed, not Mr. Rogers.

Vests have been coming down the fashion pipeline for a few seasons now, but this fall, it's reached its tipping point. This is definitely a trendy piece, so if you want your vest to last for years, get one in a timeless fabric like wool or cotton, and with classic tailoring details - almost as if they would belong as part of a three-piece suit. Stay away from vests with graphic prints or embroidery - that's totally cheesy, and as my friend Chris would say, "That's Douche a la Ruche." Also, you're looking for a versatile everyday vest, so avoid anything too fancy, like silk brocade or ones with a shiny back - you know, the kind you're forced to wear when you're a part of a wedding party. Think of a vest like a blazer without sleeves, and wear it the way you would a blazer. Just like a blazer, you'll see that a vest is a great way to add a bit of polish and structure to your look ... without actually having to wear a blazer.

[Hover over images for designer info.]

This Bod's for You

It's the day after Labor Day and you're probably thinking of getting your act together, especially when it comes to your body. Perhaps your version of endurance training all summer has been the astonishing number of beer bottles you were able to lift, then guzzle down. Or maybe you just took it a little too easy lying comatose beach-side or poolside for far too many weekends.

Whatever the case, it's time to take care of your body again. Sure, you may just want to lose the extra gut you've inherited from summer's carefree (or shall I say, careless) carousing, but what if there are ways to exercise intelligently so that you'll be restored back to good shape AND good health? As you know, there is a difference.

So today, my guest Dre' Farnell - a NYC Better Body Expert and personal trainer, gives you some tips on how to maximize your exercise routine to help you look great while managing some common men's health concerns.

Follow his advice and kick start the new season toward looking and feeling your best. Soon I'll help add some tasteful sartorial touches to your new bod, and you'll be smokin' through the rest of the year and beyond. Cheers to that!

And ... here's Dre':

Exercise Training Tips to Combat Some Men's Health Concerns and Issues

There are various methods available for us to take care of the exquisite machine that we call the human body. One of our best tools is exercise. Men have many specific health and aesthetic concerns that exercise can address. Let’s look at a few of them and see what kind of fitness training may help us to deal with them.

Men tend to store fat around their midsections. This is not a good thing due to the fact that men who tend to store fat around their waists are prone to developing heart disease and diabetes. A very recent study has shown that by the time that your waistline is at or above 39”, your chances for contracting diabetes or heart disease is greatly increased. This means that a 39” or larger waistline should be viewed as a cause for concern and looked at as a flashing red light for contracting both diabetes and heart disease.

TRAINING TIPS: To effectively avoid fat storage in your waistline you will have to attack fat storage everywhere as it is impossible to spot reduce. Train the entire body using resistance training to stimulate muscle growth. Remember that muscle uses fat as a fuel source just to exist. Work a total body weight routine into your week. Start with the larger muscle groups and end with the smaller ones. Try following this order: Legs > Back > Chest > Shoulders > Arms > Abs.

Prostate cancer is one of the top killers of men in the United States, second only to lung cancer. Prostate cancer has no real early warning symptoms and may go unchecked until it is too late. Early detection and treatment is the key to surviving. A study published in the Journal of Urology by the UCLA Jonsson Cancer Center should give men hope. The study has proven that cancer cells can be slowed down by 30% with the adoption of a healthier low fat diet and a regular exercise routine.

TRAINING TIPS: One should focus on regularity of exercise as opposed to higher intensity exercise bouts. Three days a week is enough to reap the benefits. Each exercise session should be up to an hour in length and relatively low in intensity.

A man’s sexual health is also optimized by participating in physical activity on a regular basis. Exercise stimulates hormones that are responsible for maintaining a healthy sex drive. Cardiovascular activity promotes blood flow and circulation which is key to a man’s sexual health. Aerobic exercise also increases the amount of stamina that a man will have while performing. Physical activity also clears the mind and has an overall relaxing effect on the body. Well rested and relaxed individuals have better sexual experiences. Becoming more physically fit (or even losing 10 pounds in some cases) enhances a person’s self image. Positive self image always goes a long way in the bedroom.

TRAINING TIPS: Make cardiovascular activity an integral part of your workout week. Make sure that you incorporate a few intense bouts of cardiovascular activity to rev up the heart and break a sweat.

Joint aches and pains (lower back, shoulders, knees) plague men as they age. Approximately, 70% to 85% of all Americans will experience some form of lower back issue in their lifetime. There are ways to prevent this from occurring or to make it less of a burden. Strengthening the muscles will train them to absorb more of the forces that are placed on the body.

TRAINING TIPS: Weight training is great for strengthening the bones and the muscles. Take a yoga class and pay special attention to a good flexibility program. Add the dynamic of flexibility to your strength training routine. Flexibility is one of the keys to efficient human movement and eradicating joint pain.

Utilize some of these training tips the next time that you get some exercise. Exercise with a purpose in mind and add quality to the years that you spend on this earth.

EVERYBODY HAS A BETTER BODY!

Andre' Farnell CSCS, HFS

aka "Dre' the Trainer" and Better Body Expert

Visit Dre's website at www.BetterBodyExpert.com, or shoot him an email here.

Buzz It Up

It's September, and that means it's time to let the summer go. Here in NYC, the the air has already made a swift switch to that distinctly "fall" atmosphere - you know, that special "feeling" you sense when something in the air changes with a new season.

I don't have to be psychic to know your plan for this weekend: Have one last chance to do it up for the Labor Day bash, and from there, start fresh and ready to get back to business. So I'm guessing the first order on your agenda is to clean up nice and good, right? ... Right?

The great thing about fall is that you'll have stupendous options for dressing well. But before I get into the clothes, let's start with the grooming - namely, your facial hair. Time to clean up the summer's-long worth of free-spirited growth for a more streamlined aesthetic.

To get you started, here's a review of six beard trimmers from the NY Times's The Moment blog. I actually have the Philips Norelco Turbo Vacuum and I agree on all points, except ... I can't vouch for trimming a 5 o'clock shadow. I actually checked out the "dorky" video link. Yes, I agree, it's geeky as hell, but I think the guy did a good, thorough job at describing the product and it looks like lot of people found the video helpful. Norelco should pay this fella.

Happy Fall. I'll see you around.

[Photo by Tony Cenicola for The New York Times]