VERITAS | Men's Style Blog

7 Wardrobe Essentials for Every Man

 

Here are my picks for the 7 must-have menswear essentials, guaranteed to equip you with a solid foundation in which to build the rest of your wardrobe. Think of them as primary building blocks that click together to form countless varieties of new looks, or a blank canvas that offers the ideal backdrop for expressing your personal style. These pieces will work well in most semi-dressy/business casual situations that call for something a bit more polished, but not too strict or fussy – kind of like the Goldilocks Zone of modern-day dressing.

All you need are two tops, two bottoms, two jackets, and a great pair of shoes. Let’s go:

1.) White Button-Front Shirt: Whether it's a dress shirt or sport shirt, a white, collared, button-front shirt is never an option. This shirt is the carte blanche of all shirts. Make sure they’re always at the ready, spotless, crisp and well-pressed. Whenever you're in doubt, put one on and you're money.

2.) Lightweight Crewneck Pullover: A finely-knit top is like a luxurious t-shirt. Trade it in place of your normal everyday t-shirt and you instantly amp up your style quotient. Wear it alone or over that white button-front shirt. This is also where a little color goes a long way – choose one that shows some personality (like this pink one), and it’ll take you so much farther.

3.) Dark Straight-Leg Jeans: These should have none-to-minimal washing/distressing with simple stitching. It's a versatile staple that grounds pretty much any casual/semi-casual look, and has become as essential as the ubiquitous chino. Wear it whenever you usually grab for your chinos, but when you need the dark color and a little more kick to your style.

4.) Slim Plain-Front Chinos: The chino can either be the most boring item in your wardrobe, or the most perfect basic you can ever own. You obviously want to aim for the latter, and that all depends on the style and fit. Slim means exactly what it means. Plain-front means no pleats – ever – please.

5.) Navy Blazer:  An absolute essential in order to dress up any outfit in a pinch. You could be in a t-shirt and old jeans, but the minute the blazer gets added to the mix, you'll manage to look respectable, even if you're in a hurry. For maximum mileage, go for the two-button, with dark buttons that match the jacket.

6.) Grey Blazer: The addition of an alternate grey blazer to the navy one packs a powerful one-two punch for any occasion that calls for a jacket. You’ll be fine with having just one (either one will do, but start with the navy), but you’ll never regret having both. The two options together will exponentially increase your wardrobe possibilities.

7.) Lace-up Oxfords: No matter your shoe situation, you’ve got to have one really good pair. Make it a lace-up oxford in either plain or cap toe. Dark brown gives you lots of versatility and is more interesting than black, especially in context to the rest of the 6 pieces we’re focusing on today.

Put it all together: Not only are these 7 items integral to every man's wardrobe, the beauty of these timeless basics is that, when combined together, it's an absolute fail-proof ensemble that will take very good care of you, season after season. Add extra flair with accessories, like punchy pocket squares or handsome belts, and you’re big time.

Lastly, about that white shirt... tuck the damn thing in!

Tuxedo Dos and Don’ts

Let’s finish up our 3-part formal wear analysis with a look at some black tie dos and don’ts.

 

The Long Tie

Wearing a long tie in place of a bow tie is perfectly acceptable, but as this option can look less formal, it’s important to make sure all the other elements are in perfect order.

Paul N. J. Ottosson would have been in better shape for his Academy Award photo op had his attire looked more polished and evening-worthy. Although the notch lapel jacket is a non-traditional style that’s now popularly accepted for formal occasions, I find that it looks more like a fancy business suit than a tux. The big tie with the big knot (Ack! No dimple!) and big stripes – coupled with a big, boxy jacket all made him look a tad clownish. But then again, he’s a sound engineer (with an impressive 3 Oscars and 4 nominations track record) and not a fashion plate, so I’ll cut him some slack.

In contrast, Lieve Schreiber (in Calvin Klein Collection) and Jean Dujardin (in Lanvin) did the long tie right with a shot of minimalist solid black sliver, tied tight in a simple-yet-always-elegant four-in-hand knot. And of course, with everything else done with precise, sharp tailoring, these guys did not mess around.

 

The Vest

Ben Affleck (in Gucci) didn’t look too shabby, but nonetheless missed the mark with just a couple of details. Because the high V shape cut out from the lines of the vest tends to create a stumpy torso under a jacket, he needed to balance it out with a jacket of a lower button stance. For some reason, his jacket appeared to have an unusually high button stance for a single-button, adding to the illusion of a thicker middle. Also, the extra fabric bunched around his ankles did more disservice to chop up his figure.

Meanwhile, Bradley Cooper (in Tom Ford) and Channing Tatum (in Gucci) perfected the formula by balancing the height of the vest’s neckline with a jacket of lower button stance, creating a more harmonious proportion that leaned out the torso. Their trousers were cut trim without excess fabric, further elongating the body. 

 

The Double-Breasted

Although I use Hugh Jackman (in Tom Ford) as an example of what to avoid, notice that I didn’t make him a don’t either. That’s because he actually looked great in his tux and I had no reason to take jabs at him. But that’s Hugh Jackman, not you. I’m using his example as a caution to the rest of the male population who aren’t as toweringly statuesque and solidly built as him. For the average guy without a chiseled body, and especially those who are vertically challenged and/or on the portly side, do stay away from the DB, as it will only accentuate those features.

The double-breasted tux is just as acceptable as the single-breasted, but pairing it with a shawl collar can be risky business in its possible association with the bathrobe. If you’re going for the DB, I recommend that you go for the peak lapel with a high gorge for a more formal, sharp, slimming and modern look. The gorge is the seam on the jacket where the collar meets the lapel.

Chris Pine (in Ermenegildo Zegna) was impressive in his very trim DB number, with everything cut and fitted to his body with scientific precision. The high-gorge peak lapel and minimalist design was very of-the-moment, fashion forward and advanced, making him truly stand apart as an original.

 

The Mature Gentleman

Again, as with Hugh Jackman, I’m not necessarily making Steven Spielberg (in Dior Homme) a don’t.  Actually, I was a bit torn on this choice. 40% of me wanted to give him mega props for a mature gentleman to rock such a fashionable tux in that razor-blade lapel. But then again, the majority naysayer in me screamed out to the TV while watching him, “Dress your age, papa!” So this was a toss-up, with a bias toward don’t.

Michael Douglas (in Canali), on the other hand, managed to show off a bit of older-guy fashion edge in just the right way. He did this by wearing a tux that was age-appropriately slim enough to say that he was cool and current, added just the right touch of novel cut-out detail on the lapel, then went for the kill with an injection of the ever-sophisticated midnight blue color with black accents.

 

So Close, Yet So Far Away

Finally, here is Christoph Waltz (in Prada) and George Clooney (in Georgio Armani). I leave you with these two very talented and charismatic gentlemen because they were so close to perfection had it not been for a couple of obvious misses. The devil is indeed in the details, and the details that bedeviled both of them were the same two issues that could have been easily averted:

1) Raise the jacket sleeve to show some cuff.

2) Slim down the trousers and shorten the break at the hem – just a little more for Mr. Waltz and a good extra yard for Mr. Clooney.

... And then there’s Daniel Radcliffe (in Prada) as a shining example of what could have been.

That’s it for formal wear, until next time. Hope you enjoyed the posts and that you found the information useful.

[Getty Images]

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[Catch up on the previous post: “Wear a Tux Like a Leading Man”]

 

Continuing our formal wear coverage....

When it comes to black tie events, the classic tuxedo reigns supreme.

First of all, it’s a uniform. Uniforms are meant to be goof proof – the whole thing is already perfected for you. As long as you assemble yourself faithfully to proper point-by-point guidelines, there’s no way you can make a wrong turn. Plus there’s no denying that a man looks smashing in a uniform.

Another reason to go for the classic is that it exudes good manners. Like all uniforms, a properly worn tuxedo, as much as it sets you apart, is also meant for blending in. In this case, why? Why to gracefully allow your date – and all the ladies in attendance – to showcase their exquisite dresses. See any photos of these stars taken with their dates and you’ll see exactly what I’m talking about. A gentleman never attempts to one-up his date by fighting for fashion attention.

If you really must strut your stuff, it’s allowed, within tasteful reason – just make sure you own your shit 100% without a single shred of doubt (fine examples here). But for the rest of you who want a sure shot at looking pitch-perfect with zero risk, you can achieve so much with the classic tuxedo. Oh, and trust me: no one will mistake you for boring – ever.

A few notables who hit it perfectly at this year’s Oscars are Bradley Cooper (in Tom Ford), Eddie Redmayne (in Alexander McQueen), and Justin Theroux (in Salvatore Ferragamo). They kept it as classic as can be in a single-button peaked lapel style, but couldn’t have been more dashing.

This, however, doesn’t mean you can go to a local rent-a-tux and get any classic number and think it’s okay, because that will prove to be a disaster. Primarily, rentals will most often be too boxy (in order to accommodate more body types). Please – wear a tux, not a box. Not only is the boxy style awful-looking, it’s also very dated (see what I mean here). What you need is a classic tuxedo that says modern, contemporary, and for that, the proper fit is key.

Watch especially that the jacket’s shoulders don’t extend past the natural shoulder line, the sleeve length is cropped enough to show some shirt cuff, and the body is immaculately tailored to hug the figure. The trousers are sleek and slender with sharp creases, with minimal break at the hem so that it flows neatly onto the shoes. The plain-front turndown collar shirt is clean and simple, taking over the old-school winged version as the new modern classic. 

There’s always room for variations in keeping with the classic style. Bradley Cooper chose a trim vest and simple black studs for a graceful multi-dimensional look. Eddie Redmayne wore velvet slippers for a dose of sole-ful English propriety rarely seen on this side of the Atlantic. Justin Theroux wrapped on a cummerbund, a classic formal wear furnishing that’s fast becoming a rarity.

That’s it. Nothing more, nothing less. Stick with the classics for an effortless, sure-fire way to guarantee your spot as man of the hour – every time.

Next up, to round out our three-part tuxedo examination: “Tuxedo Dos and Don’ts”

[Getty Images]

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The Oscars. It came. It went. And I don’t give a crap. But what I do give a crap about is the subject of men’s formal wear, which I’ll be covering in the next 3 posts.

Today I’ll talk about my Oscar pick for Best Dressed Man: Daniel Day-Lewis.

Daniel Day-Lewis is hands down (and feet down, and ass down) the winner of the night for embodying an impeccable formal presentation in his midnight blue Domenico Vacca tuxedo. And how apropos of him to also receive the Academy’s grand honor for Best Actor in a Leading Role. By the way, he now holds the record for the most golden statuettes in the category. Congratulations.

It’s becoming clear that I have a ‘thing’ for two things: the midnight blue shawl-collar tux and leading actors named Daniel who wear them. (If you want to see me squirm over the other Daniel, check out: “Holiday Gear: Tux Deluxe.”)

Apart from the leading man midnight blue color that takes a subtle yet glamorous departure from the sea of nominee blacks, what makes Mr. Day-Lewis’s look so absofuckinglutely right?

Let’s go down the list....

Jacket: The shawl collar has always been my favorite for its classicism and elegance. Daniel’s slimmed down version is very in-the-moment, while complementing his elongated features. Everything about him is long and lean, from his face down to his feet. The linear quality of the slim shawl collar harmonizes well with his body type.

The black accent on the collar works well to add contrast and dimension to this strict streamlined look, as well as to pick up the black of the bow tie. This creates a clean, precise frame over the backdrop of the white shirt to neatly direct the focus to his face, which is a man’s most identifiable and expressive feature. And his is just... lovely.

The chest pocket is also cut with the same black fabric as the collar, a quiet way to showcase a novel design detail. In fact, I had to take a closer look to make sure it was the pocket welt and not a black pocket square. In effect, this clever feature does double duty as functional pocket opening and decorative pocket square, further streamlining the look.

The single button is not only the ideal style for a formal jacket, it also creates a low button stance that cuts a deep V onto his torso, complementing his long lines. Anyone who wishes to create the look of a longer, slimmer torso would do well with lower button stance jackets. Button stance is the term used for the position of the jacket’s top button.

Shirt: Perfect in its minimalism – a quiet plain front with a simple turndown collar. No extras like pleating or embellished studs. It’s just a pared down yet elegant canvas to highlight his face and upper body. Also note the cuffs peeking out – this detail is never an option when wearing a shirt and jacket, as the extra sliver of cuff keeps the shirt and jacket visually linked, creating balance. It looks like he has a good inch showing instead of the usual half inch, thereby doubling his confidence and flair.

Trousers: Tuxedo trousers traditionally have a ribbon running down the outer side of each leg, made from the same fabric as the jacket’s satin or grosgrain lapel. Daniel took a pass, instead opting again for a sleek, solid colored trim-cut trouser that accentuates his lean lines. The sharply-pressed creases at the center of the legs create an even more severe linearity that further accentuates his vertical stature. The high hem with a minimal break seamlessly connects to his shoes, creating a continues flow.

Shoes: Sleek slip-ons in patent/high-polish leather. With no extraneous laces or bulk, it blends in beautifully with his trousers.

Accessories: Nothing more than a simple black blow tie in perfect proportion to his face and collar, and one single statement jewelry – his wedding band. For a look this stunning, nothing more is needed – or wanted.

Lastly, I want to comment on one thing that Daniel Day-Lewis possesses that’s both the essential foundation and final touch to his refined appearance. And that is his character. This outrageously talented man embodies poise and finesse alongside a deeply genuine humility, making him a man of incredible integrity, decency and grace. I believe that a cultivated, attractive inner quality is the key to appearing cultivated and attractive to others. So after all that I’ve said on this post regarding the outer, I leave you now with the most important ingredient for your image and style – yourself. Everything else is just icing on the cake.

On my next post, I’ll talk about some more impressive stars who shined in their tuxes on Oscar night.

[Images: Getty]

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Be a Hot Date in 24 Hours (Part 2 of 4)

 

[Catch up on grooming tips from the last post: “Be a Hot Date in 24 Hours" (Part 1 of 4).]

In today's exercise, and for the next two posts, I will provide you with quick tips on how to make small changes that contribute to noticeably attractive, smart date looks. In addition to catching her eye, you'll get a boost of healthy confidence to take your romance to the next level. Each post will cover a style tip, along with a little dating advice I can offer you as a woman.

Tip 1: Throw on a colored sweater for a shot of uplifting color.

I guarantee that you'll immediately get positive feedback along the lines of, "I like your sweater," or "That's a great color on you," or “You look very handsome today.” First, it will brighten up your total look, including that well-groomed mug of yours. Second, it will convey a message to your date that you cared enough to try something a little special for the occasion – in other words, that you actually gave a shit. Women are all over thoughtfulness, as I hope you already know – it makes her feel special, and making her feel special will inevitably lead to something very special for you in return.

The sweater should be basic, a simple pullover in either a v or crew neck. The color alone makes enough of a statement, so stick to a single shot of color. And by color, I mean color – navy, grey and beige don’t count.

If you don’t own a colored sweater, you can quickly grab one at pretty much any clothing store, especially big chains like Banana Republic and Uniqlo, or if you’re on a budget, big box stores like Kohl’s. It should be marked for clearance around this time of year, so consider it a non-investment with a high payoff.

The sweater should be fine enough to be layered under your jacket without adding bulk... because you are, after all, planning to wear a jacket... yes? Please, just say yes.

As the colored sweater is the focal point, keep the rest of your outfit grounded with items that you should already own – or that I pray that you already own – like a sport jacket in a neutral color like grey, navy or camel. Also, a clean, crisp white dress shirt is a must. These are menswear staples, for god's sake.

If you’re wearing jeans, choose either a clean dark pair with no wash, or one that has a subtle rinse with minimal distress. Chinos or flannel trousers are also good options in deep colors like navy, charcoal or chestnut, depending on the rest of your colors.

Bonus:

• Let your shirt cuffs peek out about a half inch from your sweater. This also ensures that you get visible cuffs from your jacket sleeve.
• Add more dimension to the color by choosing sweaters in subtle cables or other fine textures.
• For a little more dress-up and added interest, throw on a solid dark tie or one that picks up the color of the sweater.
• Try a tightly-patterned shirt that also pairs tonally with the sweater.
• Create extra finesse with a pocket square in solid white or a pattern.
  
  

Up  next: "Be a Hot Date in 24 Hours" (Part 3 of 4).