VERITAS | Men's Style Blog

Modern Madras

I'm going to start where I left off yesterday: With madras, a little goes a long way.

The best - and goof-proof way - to wear madras is to wear one instance of it, with everything else toned down and grounded in basic styles and neutral colors. The most low-key madras garments to wear are short-sleeved shirts and shorts because, well... there's just less fabric to wear than long sleeves, pants, or jackets. Also, if you're not fond of the preppy look and afraid the madras will instantly transform you to Mr. Nantucket, this formula is your insurance. The key to current madras dressing is to look for garments that are slim fit, with subdued, sun-baked vegetable colors that aren't too flashy.

Pair a subtle madras pattern with crisp dark pants or jeans, and finish with dark shoes - this will provide the gravitas that counterbalances the casualness of the shirt. Tuck in the shirt and add a dark blazer for the evening, and you'll be the handsomest man in at least a 10-block radius.

To dress up shorts a touch, wear a white button-down shirt with a lightweight solid neutral cardigan, paired with white-soled luxe suede slip-ons. A cardigan feels more contemporary than a classic pullover, and it's easy to slip on and off depending on the temperature and time of day without messing up your 'do - just don't tie it around your shoulders if you don't want the prep association.

For an even more modern look, opt for a slim fitting black-and-white graphic patchwork. All the components still reference the madras, but without the telltale colors. Besides the stylish trim fit and minimalist color combo, the shirt above has another element of newness - the button-flap chest pocket.

And if you really can't get yourself to get inside a madras (or madras-like) shirt or short, ease into it with accessories or shoes. Everything comes in madras - as ties, belts, and even watch straps. Here's a pair of canvas shoes that you can casually slip on for a taste of this centuries-old summer fabric. Wear it for fun with a pair of jeans (or shorts) and t-shirt to energize a lazy summer afternoon.

Hey, if you're a style pro who likes to taking things to the edge and absolutely knows how to make a proper style statement without crossing into douchebag territory, by all means pile the madras on. If you're a master prep who's so confident not to be mistaken for a master perp, then go do your thing. But for most regular guys such as my readers, stick to the time-honored mantra of "Less Is More." You can't argue with simply looking great.

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Style Lexicon: Madras

Madras is a fine lightweight fabric with a colorful woven pattern. Generally made from cotton, it's used primarily for summer clothing.

The fabric takes its eponymous name from its Indian birthplace, Madras, a city established by the British in the 17th century. Located on the Coromandel Coast of the Bay of Bengal in southeast India, Madras was officially renamed to Chennai in 1996, and is the state capital of Tamil Nadu, currently the fifth most populous city in India.

You can see how a country in one of the world's hottest climates knows a thing or two about summer dressing. In India, madras is also referred to as "60/40" cloth, representing the thread count: 60 threads running lengthwise (called "warp") and 40 crosswise (called "weft"). This has apparently been determined to be the perfect ratio for optimal lightness and strength, helping the fabric breathe yet remain strong - an ideal fabric for the intense summer heat of India and everywhere else without air conditioning.

Madras usually has a solid color background with patterns or designs on them, but the most ubiquitous ones are those that come in plaids. There are many who believe that the madras plaid was influenced by the Scots during their occupation in southern India in the 1800s. They say that the native weavers simply copied, with some modifications, the tartan patterns worn by the Scottish regiments during that time. Whether this was true or not - and I can see the plausibility from a historical context - I do have to admit that there are similarities between the two plaids in both design as well as basic color schemes. Many madrases look like dusty, faded tartans.

Traditional madras yarns were dyed with organic vegetable dyes, which was why the colors, although colorful, always had a natural, earthen cast to them. Also, because those veggie dyes were not colorfast (color that won't fade or run when washed, and therefore stable), they naturally "bled" every time the madras was washed, resulting in a newly blended effect each time it was laundered. This style, called "Bleeding Madras" was popular during the 1960s, and that was the true beauty of an authentic madras.

Today, most madras are "fast-dyed," meaning they're dyed with stable chemical dyes that don't bleed or fade, allowing you to throw them in the wash with the rest of your colored garments without everything else in the load coming out a little madras-y. And although a "true" madras is 100% hand-loomed from fine yarn-dyed cotton in India and should technically be dyed with these bleeding vegetable dyes, even the hand-loomed ones from India these days are usually dyed colorfast.

At present, madras generally refer to any lightweight cotton fabric that has the "madras look." To imitate traditional madras, manufacturers of prep gear such as Ralph Lauren, Brooks Brothers and J.Crew mimic the vegetable colors and faded effect by dying the fabric in earthy colors such as maroon, dusty navy and saffron, and use enzymes and special wash techniques to create that well-worn madras look and feel. I like to call it the "McMadras:" First it's fast-dyed, then fast-forwarded through the space-time continuum to provide you with instant satisfaction of a well-worn-and-bled madras - without having to endure the washings, the wear, and the pain (or pleasure) of caring for the bloody mess. Great! Well... except for the environmental issues.... :(...

Patchwork madras are also very popular, an invention which also originated from India. Traditionally, it was a creative and economical way to repurpose various madras scraps and ends left over from the cutting floor. They were then cut into small squares and sewn back together to create a single piece of fabric that could be made into garments. Interestingly, the word "patch" also originates from India as an abbreviation of the Telugu word pach’chadamu, meaning "two pieces of cotton cloth joined together."

Madras is a definitive summer fabric, as well as a quintessential component of the summer preppy style. You see it made in just about anything - shirts, pants, shorts, jackets, shoes, hats, etc. It's a versatile and unique fabric that should suit almost every man in the heat of summer, prep or not. And if you can't see yourself draped in a yard or two of madras (i.e., shirt, pants or jacket), then try it as an accent piece such as a pocket square, tie or shoe. With madras, a little goes a long way.

In Summery

These guys look pretty sharp the way they are in their cotton jacket, pants, suit, and everything else. You'll certainly look first-rate dressed this way to work (although the guy in the left can button up the shirt and tighten up the knot for that) and to many social events happening this summer, including the gazillions of weddings that line your iCal from June to August.

But as smart as these guys look, do you find yourself getting a little bored from sporting - or at least seeing - these same ensembles all throughout spring? Now that we're well into summer, want something a bit more summery to heat up your style?

The best way to take these looks from good to smashing with minimal effort is through intelligent accessorizing. Leave the navy jacket, chinos, khaki suit, and light-colored solid shirt on - they'll last you well through Memorial Day and beyond. But by switching up the tie, stuffy shoes, and adding some smokin' shades, you'll easily transform a reliably decent spring/summer look to a more festive, exciting summertime attire that you can enjoy for work and play.

Try this brilliant upgrade to an upcoming summer wedding (preferably outdoors), and you may very well one-up the groom (Unless of course, you're the groom, in which case you'll one-up yourself - now is that such a horrible thing?). Just make sure you're not fairer than the bride, and you're good to go.

Tie One On in Patterned Cotton: Put away the silks and solid numbers for now and get happy with cotton! Either woven or knit, make it a pattern!

Lighten Up Your Step: White-soled lace-ups hit the perfect balance between lightweight and heavy, casual and formal, without compromising even a micro-millimeter on comfort and high style.

Work Your Mojo: Ray-Ban may have developed the first aviator sunglasses, but Tom Ford, being Tom Ford, makes it sizzling hot. It's over three times the price of Ray-Ban, but trust me - you'll get your sexy back ten-fold. Ray-Ban may be a tried-and-true classic, but the discriminating gentleman of wicked summertime sophistication wears Tom Ford Eyewear Cyrille aviators.

[Hover over images for brand, price, and photo credits where available.]

Navy Blazer, Part II: Work It Good

By now you know that the navy blazer is the item to have for summer dressing.

But then what? How do you make it work? What shirts, pants, shoes, belts - and in what colors - do you wear with that amazing navy jacket without looking like you belong to an alma mater or maritime association?

If these burning questions leave you sleepless at night, here are some tips on how to work that glorious navy jacket.

Basic - Solid and Sensational
Collared shirts in solid pale shades such as white, blue, pink, grey, lilac, mint and peach beautifully compliment navy. Wearing a tie? Break up the excess solid by introducing texture, such as a tone-on-tone patterned tie (topmost image) or a solid knit one - double points for patterned knit ties. Want a little more sleek? Go for the monochromatic look with a navy shirt, but undo the top button and ditch the tie - you want to partake in sophisticated ease, solid but well-ventilated - not like you got painted over with navy. For more causal days, knit pullovers in a crew or V in solid or heathered hues look right. Be sure it's the grown-up kind in fine cashmere, silk, or cotton - not the ones you wear to the gym.

Intermediate - Open to Possibilities
Patterned shirts in graphic stripes and checks in small to smallish-medium sizes on white backgrounds look modern, crisp and sharp. Prints aren't for everyone, but if you're a print man, a multi-colored, festive burst of color - chosen tastefully - will provide a playful pop of freshness ideal for summer. Here, you do the opposite of breaking up the monotony of solids (see "Basic"): You now tone down the patterns by wearing a dark, solid tie or a close-to-solid one - in which case a solid knit tie works here just as well. Try knit pullovers in brighter, more eye-catching solids, or in neutral/softer shades accented with tipping. For more visual interest, go for fine knits in thin-to-medium stripes.

Advanced - More is More
Layer pattern-upon-pattern-upon-texture-upon-color-upon-contrast. This one's a bold move, so tread carefully. As not to overdo it, which is very easy to do, designate only one or two bold elements (above, the tie and collar) and let the rest recede - although this patterned shirt is colorful, it's still soft and fine compared to the highly graphic tie. Knit tops are striking, in bold stripes or color blocks. At this level, it's about showmanship, displaying confidence and style - and knee-deep in dandy territory.

A sliver of solid pocket square (by square I mean square) adds final finesse to any of the above options.

Pants: Well-fitting pants in flat front, with straight legs on the slim or slightly tapered side is most current, with a slight break at the hem. If you're one for being in the fashion moment, show a flash of ankle. Colors in white, khaki, and grey are great choices. Jeans can run the gamut from super dark to white to washed/broken-in (see image of the guy with the baseball bat from the post "Spring Colors"). However, show some respect for the jacket and steer clear from too broken-in/distressed jeans, where there's rips and holes - reserve that for panhandling on Venice Beach.

Shoes and Belts: Generally, you want your shoe and belt colors to coordinate. They don't have to be a perfect match (that's boring anyway), but should complement each other. Depending on the occasion, your preference or mood, lace-ups and brogues, loafers and driving shoes, classic sneakers such as Stan Smiths and Jack Purcells are at your disposal. If you're into prep, or boats, there's always the Topsider, which has made a huge comeback lately. You don't need special belts for summer, but ones made from cloth or braided leather are especially appropriate for summer.

Navy with brown shoes and belts are a gorgeous combo - and you already know that. But you may be wondering: What about black shoes and belts with navy? Most people have come to think that black can never be friends with navy, but you know what? Done right, navy-and-black is one bad-ass duo. So how do you do it?

Wearing Navy-and-Black: First, in order to wear black shoes and belts with navy, having other black or blackish elements that link back to them help - this allows the eyes to move around the black parts instead of focusing on the one or two areas. Wearing a light shirt with dark jeans or pants is one option, although I don't recommend wearing black pants unless you know what you're doing. Another is to wear a black-and-white patterned shirt or sweater. If you wear a tie, wear a black one. Worn together with the navy jacket, white or grey pants work better with black shoes and accessories than khakis and other warm colors. You can see some examples of these techniques in the photos above and easily picture them with black shoes and belts.

A caveat: Successful navy-and-black dressing comes with a contingency - confidence. If you don't think you've got it yet, you have plenty to work on with navy-and-brown. Once you've masted that, you can slowly build up to the force that's navy-and-black. No rush. Just enjoy looking splendid every step of the way.

Spring Patterns

Building on the solid colors discussed on the last post, it's time to add the next element: pattern.

When it comes to pattern, a little goes a long way. The same rule applies to the use of pattern as what I previously mentioned about the use of white - sparingly and judiciously. Done right, adding a little pattern to your otherwise solid get-up will kick-start your spring style into high gear.

The warm season is especially conducive to pattern-wearing. Depending on the pattern type, size, and/or color, something about its ease or playful attitude goes well with the spirit of spring and summer. However, there are distinctions to be made for what patterns suit which season. When choosing patterns for spring, stick to the classics: plaids, checks, and stripes -  there's plenty of variety within these three categories to satisfy every personality and taste level.

As the air and temperature in spring are still on the crisp, fresh side, choose patterns that compliment those same qualities. This means simple, clean, clearly defined patterns in non-fussy weaves like gingham and solid stripes. The same applies to colors: clean, clear and bright. By bright I'm not just talking about bright colors such as bright orange and green (which, by the way, are great for spring), but I'm also referring more to the feeling of brightness.

For instance, the shirts below (all by J.Crew) have medium blue and dark blue yarns - if you saw just the blue yarns before they were woven into each cloth, you'd definitely say they're not bright. However, they feel bright and light because of the white background. That's what I mean by bright - in a more general context - a sense, a feeling of lightness.

In this way, you can more or less wear any color, as long as it's grounded with a light background. And as I've mentioned on the last post, white is the king of backgrounds for spring patterns - it single-handedly lifts anything you wear into a spring-appropriate ensemble. If the pattern's background isn't white, in which case I recommend off-white or light cream, be sure that there's still some white incorporated into the overall pattern - just a little white somewhere will still be able to brighten the entire pattern.

Colorwise, again, keep things simple. Two-color checks and stripes such as the ones pictured above are virtually goof-proof. They always look great and go with just about anything, and they certainly pair well with all the colors I've mentioned on the previous post. If you go for a multi-color pattern, stick to as few color combinations as possible, and make sure the pattern is defined and clean, not muddy. But do experiment with all the varieties of colors available in these types of patterns - this is the right season to play around - just make sure that the colors work with your skin tone. (I'll cover skin tone analysis and color later).

Keep the size of spring patterns literally in "check" - smaller and on the tight side,  but with clean and defined lines to offset the smaller scale of the pattern. Again, it's always about balance - in this case, between subtle and graphic.

The easiest, obvious way to wear pattern is to wear it as a shirt, keeping the rest of your gear solid. If you want to up the ante though, try using patterns as accent pieces, such as on pocket squares and ties. Just make sure the accent piece and the area it lays on has some kind of relationship, either by sharing a part of a common color, tonality, etc. I'll get to the subjects of adding accents and the art of layering pattern-on-pattern on future posts, but for now, if you're in doubt, don't go there.

Take these tips and make them your own. Try out some colors and have fun. Spring is an uplifting season, so cheer up, brighten up, and add a bit of flair to your style!