VERITAS | Men's Style Blog

Classics, with a Twist

Two American old-time brands of two diverse pedigrees reinvent themselves this fall: Gant, with it's preppy heritage, and Woolrich, representing the great American outdoors. Both companies dug deep into their fabric and design archives to cook up new interpretations of their unique traditions and aesthetics.

Gant 60th Anniversary Collection

Last night I was at the Gant flagship store on Fifth Avenue for the company's 60th anniversary party. At first I wasn't all that excited about it, but I decided to go investigate their heavily pumped "60th Anniversary Collection," a line of 6 limited edition collector's item shirts sold exclusively at said flagship store here in New York and at Barneys New York, Beverly Hills, and Chicago. Heck, I might as well go while cocktails are served, right?

Honestly, despite the fact that Gant had much to contribute to the birth of the American man's shirt—introducing the button-down oxford shirt across the U.S, inventing the locker loop, the box pleat, and the button on the back collar (it keeps the tie in place)—I was pretty bored with their merch for a long long time...possibly always.

But to commemorate their 60th, Gant came up with these newly-rendered versions of their 6 vintage shirt styles. I inspected every single one of those shirts—and maybe it was the cocktail talking—but I actually really dug them.

I appreciated the luxe tweaks, like turning a woolly flannel shirt into a soft cotton-cashmere blend ("The Cashmere"), or transforming a casual Ivy League professorial button-down into a slim fit, übersleek Sea Island cotton number ("The Sea Island"). Then there are the unusual permutations of the classic oxford button-down: "The Rugger," a fusion between an oxford button-down and a rugby shirt, and "The Pullover," an oxford button-down-turned-leisure shirt (both pictured above). (Check out all the shirts here.)

These shirts would look mighty nice on ye old chaps with a pair of dark or subtly broken-in jeans, topped with a tweed or flannel sportcoat, or even a chunky cardigan. Finish with boots, lace-ups, sneakers, or one of those cool Sperry Top-Sider Chukkas.

Woolrich Woolen Mills

If the Gant shirts seem a little too affected and precious for a straight-shootin' man like yourself, there's the more rugged Woolrich Woolen Mills, a high-concept label for Woolrich—the company famous for its lumberjack-style woolly outdoor gear. As such, it's an outerwear/jacket-heavy collection that makes good use of the company's signature plaids and woolen fabrics, mixed in with some rustic knits.

Now I tried to digest what the website was saying about the collection, but it was so garbled with meaningless jargon that I gave up. I mean, I'm no novice in bullshit fashion-speak, but this one took it to another level. Excerpt: "It is a synergy between textile tradition and modern forms, where structural details have a fundamental role in terms of functionality." ... Say wha??? Bitch pu-leez.

But to sum up the 11-paragraph gibberish in one sentence, I think it was basically saying this: "Woolrich Woolen Mills is a design concept that honors the rich heritage and tradition of the Woolrich brand, reinterpreting it in modern ways that mirror its history and authenticity." Done. And done.

While a few individual pieces of the collection are alright, I find that the line as a whole is too heavy. I can't imagine a man wearing a wool shirt with a wool bow tie with a wool sportcoat and pants under a thick wool sweater under a wool peacoat. Verdict: Don't believe the hype. If you'd like to try it, pick one piece and de-woolify the rest of the look. (View the collection here.)

Isaia's 10 Style Tips

I've been running across some great style tips from Italian designer Gianluca Isaia this week. Fellas, take heed:

1) On Personal Style
"Personal style is exactly that: personal. It can be part gentleman and part dandy, but it is always unmistakably stylish. It’s important for men to wear what they are most comfortable in, but comfort does not mean messy. When a man is at a loss for personal style, there’s nothing wrong in looking for inspiration in the style of those you admire."

2) One Thing Every Man Needs
"The cornerstone of every wardrobe is a classic, well-tailored navy-blue suit. When paired with the right furnishings, this suit is appropriate for just about any occasion, from the boardroom to the dining room. And, if the mood strikes, the suit can be broken up into separates, providing versatile options that include a chic navy sport coat."

3) Choosing a Jacket
"Chances are, whether wearing a suit or a sport coat, most men have chosen a jacket that’s too big. Remember that jackets should fit like a second skin - moving with the body comfortably. There’s also a big difference between a machine-made garment and a tailored one, so it is worth investing in the latter. A man will know if he’s wearing a well-tailored garment because it is so light he won’t even feel as though he’s wearing a jacket."

4) A Variety of Jackets
"The first three jackets a man should invest in are single-breasted ones in solid navy, solid grey and one with a subtle pattern. Once he has those, he can add a double-breasted style. A double-breasted suit is really one of the most elegant looks a man can wear. Since it should always be worn completely buttoned up, the wearer will always look like a gentleman."

5) How to Wear Color
"A lot of men are intimidated by color, but that’s because they don’t realize what a tremendous asset it can be. The right amount of color in clothes can brighten your complexion and change your whole mood. For any man, an easy entrée into the world of color is a great tie, a pocket square or even a pair of socks."

6) Food & Fitness
"When I eat pasta or mozzarella di bufala, I chew extra hard to get in some exercise. I'm joking, but the point is I still enjoy food and I still look after myself. You need to be in shape, but don't be obsessed with your body. Enjoy, enjoy, enjoy."

7) Wild Sex and Suits
"In Neapolitan dialect, there's an expression, fare una sciammeria, which means to have a wild, passionate, crazy night of sex. They don't come easily—you need to make a bit of effort. To get one you need to invest money—take a woman out to the right restaurant, buy her flowers, do vacations. The money spent will bring you pleasure. It's the same with a suit—you need to spend money to get the most from one."

8) Shoes and Elegance
"You don't always have to wear wing tips with suits. In the summer, I wear sandals, handmade in Capri, to make my suits a little less dramatic. As long as you wear something naturally, it can never lose its elegance."

9) Shirts on a Plane
"You can recognize a good shirt immediately on a plane. If a guy, after placing his luggage in the overhead storage, has to tuck his shirt back in his pants, then it's not a well-made shirt. A good shirt has a high armhole that fits right under your armpit. It gives you more movement and guarantees the shirt will always stay in place."

10) On Jewelry
"A man can wear a ring, a bracelet, or even a necklace—any jewelry he wants. What's important is that the object become a part of him, or else it's going to clash."

[Tips 1-5 from Style Rules, Tips 6-10 from Details]

The Fall Guy

To prepare for your glory this fall, the last couple of posts were about grooming and getting your body back in check. Yes, those are important topics, but you're probably wondering when I'm going to start talking fashion again. Guys, the time starts now, and I plan to deliver!

Always thinking of you, I did a walk-through of some major retailers to see what their first men's offerings were for fall. This is the time when you can spot right away the top trends that are going to make a big splash for the season. And as to be expected, there were a few hits as well as some serious misses.

So let's start with the flops...

Just Say No to the Giant Croc: Lacoste's latest polo comes in an oversized crocodile chest patch. The first time I saw it, I couldn't help but notice how out of proportion the gigantic croc looked on the shirt. And to make matters worse, upon closer examination, the blown-up croc looked just plain dopey. I cross-referenced the logo artwork with the regular small version and saw that they were basically the same. It's understandable that the original logo is too small to add much detail, but I would think that if they're going to blow up the thing, they'd want to fill up the extra space with some more stitch details.

My beef, however, wasn't even so much a matter of aesthetics, but rather the sad feeling that Lacoste completely missed the mark as a late adopter of the giant-logo-on-the-polo-shirt phenomenon that started a few years back when Polo Ralph Lauren came out with a monstrous pony logo emblazoned on their polo shirts. I think that conspicuous displays of designer logos are really tacky, so when I saw this dumb-looking croc in 12 different colorways, I just got tired. Lacoste gets zero points for originality, and it's really lame for them to shamelessly copy another label's (tasteless) idea ... and a few years too late at that. I normally like Lacoste for being a bit more refined than its American polo shirt makers (they're French, ya see), but this one's a total dud in my opinion. Guys, go ahead and get Lacoste polo shirts, but please stick to the original ones with the small logo if you don't want to risk looking ridiculous.

Flashy Jeans: I've never liked loud jeans on men (or women), but I'm so glad I'm still seeing lots of them around because that only means they're on their way out - for good. There's not much to say about these jeans except that they're tacky and makes you look like a bona fide fashion victim. The most current jean to wear now is a simpler style with a cleaner wash, dark rinse or raw denim, so stock up on those and ditch this bad idea once and for all.

Skull Overload: Don't get me wrong. I love skulls. I revere the profound iconographic influence they've had in culture, art, religion and life since the beginning of humankind. In fact, I dutifully wear a bracelet made from a row of silver skulls (designed by Jade Jagger, Mick's daughter) every day as a reminder of the impermanence of life, which helps me remember to appreciate the preciousness of every moment. That said, I feel that the skull motif has been so overused and abused, especially on t-shirts, that it's become just a nauseating trend. At this point, wearing graphics dripping with skulls doesn't make you edgy - it makes you look like every other dude who's trying to look cool, and failing miserably. And guys, if you're older than 25, please ... give up the dream. Like the skulls themselves, this is a trend that's totally dead. R.I.P.

And now, unto the good stuff...

Tartan Plaid: Remember the madras from summer? If certain schools of thought speculate that madras is a descendant, or at least a distant cousin, of the tartan, then this fall, we're going back to the roots. Think of tartans as patterns you see on a kilt, and you can picture exactly what I'm talking about. If there's one patterned shirt to buy this season, make it a tartan. It goes well with your favorite pair of jeans and look fantastic with another great piece you should look into - the cardigan. Go casual with rolled-up sleeves, a broken-in pair of jeans and sturdy shoes for an Americana vibe. Or dress it up with pristine dark jeans, dark cardigan and lace-ups. Make sure the shirt is slim cut so that you get the most modern look ... and no one mistakes you for a Christmas blanket.

Cardigans are hot this season, especially around now when it's not exactly cold enough to wear a coat. This is a great light-jacket alternative, as well as a more interesting way to layer under a jacket than your typical pullover sweater. I know a lot of you associate the cardigan with gramps, but the latest cardigans are anything but octogenarian. Get ones that fit close to your body in a refined, lightweight wool or cashmere, and you're money. Start with a solid color like grey or navy first, and once you get the hang of it, go for some bold stripes or at least some color-blocking. Wear it over a t-shirt or buttoned shirt, and don't button it up all the way - you want the look to be easy and relaxed, not Mr. Rogers.

Vests have been coming down the fashion pipeline for a few seasons now, but this fall, it's reached its tipping point. This is definitely a trendy piece, so if you want your vest to last for years, get one in a timeless fabric like wool or cotton, and with classic tailoring details - almost as if they would belong as part of a three-piece suit. Stay away from vests with graphic prints or embroidery - that's totally cheesy, and as my friend Chris would say, "That's Douche a la Ruche." Also, you're looking for a versatile everyday vest, so avoid anything too fancy, like silk brocade or ones with a shiny back - you know, the kind you're forced to wear when you're a part of a wedding party. Think of a vest like a blazer without sleeves, and wear it the way you would a blazer. Just like a blazer, you'll see that a vest is a great way to add a bit of polish and structure to your look ... without actually having to wear a blazer.

[Hover over images for designer info.]

Unfortunate Understatement

Last month, I wrote this post about the undershirt. Surprisingly, it's been one of my more popular posts so far. I never imagined that so many men were in turmoil over this subject, so I thought I'd take another stab and offer you an update: Two examples of exactly what not to do when wearing an undershirt.

As you know, I love the pink shirt. But sadly, what good are these pink shirts when you defile them so with improper undershirt skills? And what are they smiling about? As an aspiring men's fashion bodhisattva (definition here), I wish I can instantly awaken them to the virtues of proper undershirt practice. But since they're merely images I found on the web, I thought I'd make them unfortunate examples so that at least my readers could benefit from their blunders.

So what's wrong with the dude on the left? Do you see that heinous U carved out on his chest? You can't tell from the picture, but if you met him in person, you'll also be seeing his tank top straps carving out yet two more unflattering shapes around his shoulders and armpits. This is the equivalent of a woman wearing a black bra under a white shirt. Yeah, I know some of you are asking, "So what's wrong with that?" Well, I wouldn't say it's right or wrong per se, but rather, it's not classy. But then again, women don't dress that way wanting to convey class. So like them, I suppose it's up to you on how you want to expose your undershirt. Keep in mind, though, that women can get away with that kind of antic as sexy - you, however, cannot.

And how about the guy on the right? He's wearing his shirt open and wearing a crewneck undershirt. If you read my previous post, you'll know what I'm talking about. If you intentionally open your shirt, wear a V-neck. Also, this is going off-topic, but it's important: When wearing a dress shirt, tucked it in.

The purpose of the undershirt is to provide you with understated comfort and protection from sweat or cold. It's called an undershirt for a reason, so all I'm saying is: Try to keep it on the discreet side.

Modern Madras

I'm going to start where I left off yesterday: With madras, a little goes a long way.

The best - and goof-proof way - to wear madras is to wear one instance of it, with everything else toned down and grounded in basic styles and neutral colors. The most low-key madras garments to wear are short-sleeved shirts and shorts because, well... there's just less fabric to wear than long sleeves, pants, or jackets. Also, if you're not fond of the preppy look and afraid the madras will instantly transform you to Mr. Nantucket, this formula is your insurance. The key to current madras dressing is to look for garments that are slim fit, with subdued, sun-baked vegetable colors that aren't too flashy.

Pair a subtle madras pattern with crisp dark pants or jeans, and finish with dark shoes - this will provide the gravitas that counterbalances the casualness of the shirt. Tuck in the shirt and add a dark blazer for the evening, and you'll be the handsomest man in at least a 10-block radius.

To dress up shorts a touch, wear a white button-down shirt with a lightweight solid neutral cardigan, paired with white-soled luxe suede slip-ons. A cardigan feels more contemporary than a classic pullover, and it's easy to slip on and off depending on the temperature and time of day without messing up your 'do - just don't tie it around your shoulders if you don't want the prep association.

For an even more modern look, opt for a slim fitting black-and-white graphic patchwork. All the components still reference the madras, but without the telltale colors. Besides the stylish trim fit and minimalist color combo, the shirt above has another element of newness - the button-flap chest pocket.

And if you really can't get yourself to get inside a madras (or madras-like) shirt or short, ease into it with accessories or shoes. Everything comes in madras - as ties, belts, and even watch straps. Here's a pair of canvas shoes that you can casually slip on for a taste of this centuries-old summer fabric. Wear it for fun with a pair of jeans (or shorts) and t-shirt to energize a lazy summer afternoon.

Hey, if you're a style pro who likes to taking things to the edge and absolutely knows how to make a proper style statement without crossing into douchebag territory, by all means pile the madras on. If you're a master prep who's so confident not to be mistaken for a master perp, then go do your thing. But for most regular guys such as my readers, stick to the time-honored mantra of "Less Is More." You can't argue with simply looking great.

[Hover over images for brand and photo credits where available.]