VERITAS | Men's Style Blog

It's in the Details

Here's a decent, good-looking fella. He's clean-cut and put-together. His clothes fit well. He seems like a nice guy, and there's generally nothing much to pick at. At the same time, he's just an Average Joe in a basic, ubiquitous uniform favored by millions of unimaginative American men: the always-flattering-but-totally-safe-and-utterly-boring light blue dress shirt, paired with it's southern counterpart — which, although not always flattering, is equally totally safe and utterly boring. Then cut the body in dead half with a black belt on an otherwise soft palette, and trouble brews. Clip on a cell phone holster to the waist? Pandemonium.

This leads me to a public service announcement regarding clipping your cell phone on your belt or carrying it inside your pant pocket: There is mounting scientific evidence that the electromagnetic radiation emitting from your cell phone, a low-power microwave (like the oven, but without walls) — in addition to all kinds of bioeffects, brain tumors and DNA damage — damage sperm. Over the years, I've been telling men that wearing cell phones clipped to the belt causes testicular cancer. Now I don't need to make it up. Science is finally backing up what fashion has known all along.

Now back to Mr. Average...

I want to show you that he doesn't need a radical wardrobe overhaul to go from looking alright to smashing. All a man needs to know is the proper balance of fit, proportion, color and texture. Let's go through this step by step:

He already seems to be good on understanding fit — tailored and lean without excess fabric bellowing in the breeze.

Next is proportion. His pant waist is too high up, resting on the natural, or traditional, waist. This does a few unflattering things: 1) This waistline, although appropriate in fashion movements of past, looks outdated and rather dad-like today. 2) The high waistline, especially cinched with the belt, emphasizes his hips, giving him a bit of a rounded, slightly feminine shape. 3) The high waist creates the appearance of a shorter torso compared to his overall body proportions – he would do well to elongate the area for a leaner body line.

On to color. Understanding the art of wearing proper colors that enhance your individual coloring is crucial to developing personal style. The right colors brighten and accentuate your face and bring out your character. This guy has rather strong features with good contrast between his eyes, hair and skin colors. However, the pale, washed out colors of his getup is fading him out instead of emphasizing his bold features. Although this color scheme will work wonderfully on men with softer, subtle colorings, this man would benefit from contrasting colors that complement his own contrasting coloring. This includes deep colors such as navy, purple or black, and bright colors such as bright white, lilac or ice blue. The shirt he's wearing is actually good, but he should pair it with other garments that help add more contrast instead of this pale chino.

I know that many men are afraid to wear color, but remember that "wearing color" isn't about wearing bright or loud colors, but rather, about wearing the correct colors — in any shade you're comfortable with — that make a real difference.

Texture keeps things interesting. It provides visual variety that breaks up the monotony of too many solid colors worn together. Texture can come in the form of surface interest, like an interesting weave on a cloth or from knits or sweaters, even if the garment is of a single color. Another type of texture comes from visual interest, in the form of colored prints and patterns as in checks, stripes and plaids.

Now let's bring this all together. In the image below, I morphed this guy's upper body with another image that I found, then painted over his solid shirt with the shirt pattern of the new image. Yeah, the forearms look a bit out of proportion — after all, it's not his — but all in all, I think this works well to drive the point. I then recolored the second image just to show you another color example, given the exact outfit.

Do you see the difference here? With just a few subtle changes, he looks like a new man. He didn't have to change his wardrobe preference in any way except to shift the proportions and add the right colors and textures. It's still the same exact button-front-shirt-and-chinos combo, but yet all the new components work together to make him look trimmer and well-proportioned. His facial features are more defined and there's strength to his coloring. He looks more youthful. Even his hair somehow looks better — this is a prime example of subtle shifts that make people ask curiously, "Hey, there's something different about you. Did you get a haircut or something?"

Add some stylish touches like nonchalantly rolled-up sleeves and a pair of cool shoes. If he wants to wear a belt, he should opt for a brown one that complements the shoes – this time the belt will sit at a lower waistline, so the horizontal line created by the belt will still keep his body in proportion instead of cutting him in half. Throw on a navy blazer or a corduroy or cotton sport jacket in navy or light brown, and with maybe even a slim tie, he's confidently ready to set forth. Upward and onward!

[Hover over each image for info.]

Holiday Gear: Tux Deluxe

As the art of dressing makes a comeback in menswear, the tuxedo is back in the limelight. So for this holiday season — as well as for any special formal occasion — consider wearing the tuxedo as not so much a begrudging sartorial obligation, but rather, a rare opportunity to shine as the distinctive, dashing, debonair man that you are.

Today's tux is modern, minimal, molds perfectly to your body, with meticulous attention to detail that provides lots of options to leave your personal mark — qualities that you can never dream to have in an abominable rental. So invest in your own tux and never be mistaken for a groomsman again. A man of genuine style owns himself — and his tux.

A classic tuxedo jacket has a single button, but the 2-button is a popular option. The peak lapel or shawl collar is the standard, but the notch collar has come to be commonly accepted. Although black is the most widely worn color, midnight blue is also a classic tux color that offers a dose of sophistication yet "something different." Remember: no more than 2 buttons, ever, and most importantly, make sure you're wearing a jacket, not a box.

Although the stand-up wing collar (below left) is the traditional tuxedo shirt style, the most current collar style is the turndown collar, which is basically the collar style you see on your normal dress shirt (below, right). Please: no vest, no cummerbund, and no clip-on bow ties, although if you prefer a cummerbund, keep it sleek and subtle. Don't get too fussy with the shape of the pocket square either, i.e., no origami.

Daniel Craig gets my vote for the best dressed tux man in the world. I just about die every time I see him in a tux (or suit ... or anything ... or almost nothing). Here, he sports a midnight blue classic shawl collar with silk cuffs by Tom Ford. Two words: Freakin' Sublime.

Classic Done Right: Single button peak lapel. Polished. Natty. Gracious. Charming. Turner Classic Movies ... but 2010.

Bringing Sexy Back: Midnight blue over black says "evening." Modern, masculine, dark and sensual. Shows that black-and-blue can be a really good thing.

So Luxe: The velvet jacket is opulent and sumptuous. Plush, ritzy, and swanky, it's perfect for the festive, glitzy holiday season. Don't worry, you won't come across as self-indulgent if you pair it with more basic, modest underpinnings throughout.

The Skinny: Not for the Average Joe, but works splendidly for the man who knows he's the hippest man in town.

Winter White: The white dinner jacket will get you noticed in a sea of black. Traditionally worn only in the domain of balmy, summery evenings, this is a sharp option when you're inviting in the new year in style from somewhere warm, preferably south of the equator.

[Above 5 Photos by Paola Kudacki for GQ.]

Holiday Gear: In Good Company

Holiday season is officially on, and that means you're going to end up in a number of quasi-social gatherings where your attendance is underscored with a subtext of obligation. I'm talking about the likes of the annual company holiday party, the schmooze fest at the big boss's suburban McMansion, or meeting your sweetheart's family for the first time at her parents' home.

Of course, those events can be delightful, but scratch just below the surface and there's often a sense of slight uneasiness in that you know that this isn't the type of party that you can let it all loose. Unlike the parties that you voluntarily prefer swinging in, this is no place for faux pas of any kind. In fact, this is an occasion to put yourself in the best possible light in the eyes of your colleagues, superiors, and possible future in-laws. So while I can't help you from making an ass of yourself, at least I can attempt to help you avoid looking like one.

Let's start with an example of how not to dress. In all honestly, there's exactly nothing devastatingly wrong about this look. He's rocking a pop of festive color and pattern on his tie, and the windowpane blazer adds another element of textural interest — even the fit isn't all that bad. It's not that anything's blatantly wrong with him, it's just that he's just so-so, boring, standard, and exhibits no style or personality. Although not offensive, he's surely not impressive. This is not the way to go if you want to leave a memorable mark.

To amp his style, he can start by switching up the fat silk tie to a colorful knitted or woven wool one that's slightly more narrow than the one he has on — about 3" at the widest point (2 3/4" for a bit slimmer). Another easy fix is to take up the jacket sleeve so that he has about 1/2" of cuff showing when his arm is hanging straight down. Those details alone should help.

Alternatively, he can pair a solid or subtly patterned wool tie with a cheerfully colored shirt in a pattern, topped with a navy blazer (shown above). Since these occasions are a bit more relaxed, you can optionally wear a button-down collar for a more casual vibe. And if you really want to leave an impression, do like Mad Men and embellish with a simple tie bar and flash a sliver of white pocket square. A clean, super dark pair of slim straight leg jeans offer a more modern and sophisticated option to chinos, although chinos or grey wool pants that are well tailored, cut slim and with a short-to-no break will elevate you just as well. Lastly, polish off your look with a pair of brown leather-soled wingtips — they add much more smarts and interest to your look than plain black shoes.

This is a type of function where you want to stand apart from the cubicle drones, or, for that matter, loser ex-boyfriends your lady friend has brought home in past years. While it's imperative to leave a distinctively confident mark, you also need to make sure you don't come across as a dandy. Keeping all of your wardrobe components simple and classic while maintaining a modern fit and sensibility is a surefire way to make a stylish, respectable, and memorable impression.

And for the season, a distinctive but subtle conversational accessory like a pair of holiday-themed cuff links will add just the right dose of holiday flair that's sure to be appreciated with cheer.

[Hover over images for product info.]

Chair in the Sky

Here's comedian Louis C.K. with an unexpected Thanksgiving message:

A man of high style is sharp in looks as well as character. So if you're "that guy," stop being an oaf, will you? Instead, how about a little gratitude — or at the very least, some respect — for the amazing miracles happening all around you, all the time!

Happy Thanksgiving!

Stormtrooping

It rains a lot here in NYC. For some of you in places where you drive everywhere, a little rain ain't a big deal. But here in Gotham — having to mostly walk everywhere — it's hard to escape the elements. Come rain, the subways start dripping overhead with liquids of dubious origins and practically every entryway pools with a biohazardous mixture of dog poop, urine, food stand meat juice and all kinds of street grime sloughing down from the street. Basically, the whole city becomes a giant petri dish where every known and unknown microorganism is having a raging party.

And that's just in warmer months. In the winter, it's a totally different kind of disaster. On sidewalks, you have to tread through slush cocktails flavored with snow, dirt, salt, and aforementioned smears of dog poop, urine, and meat juice (plus some occasional puke if you're lucky). But the real dig comes in when you miscalculate the depth of the slush pooled in every street corner as you cross the street. Next thing you know, you're ankle-deep in frozen filth.

So finally after a decade of personally suffering through this aqueous debacle, I decided to take action by investing in a pair of Hunter tall rain boots, or "wellingtons." And man, had I known how life-changing it is to own a pair, I would have done this years ago. In fact, my entire perspective on stormy days have pulled a 180. The rain and I have now become friends, and I look forward to whistling through the winter slush ahead.

There's a Buddhist teaching that goes something like this: Instead of expecting to cover the world in leather for you to walk on, cover your own feet in leather. In other words, stop complaining about getting your feet wet with muck and put on some damn wellies!

So let's take a look at some rain boots to get your feet dry and happy no matter how sinister the deluge. I found many different styles to fit varying tastes and personalities, so hope you'll find something you like. Once you get a pair, I promise you'll be glad you did. So here's the lineup....

TALL BOOTS
Tall boots are best because it offers the maximum amount of elemental protection. This is a great chance for you to find an excuse to wear tall boots without having to be a horseman or biker. Wear these with slim fit or straight leg jeans or pants for a rugged but sleek look. And seriously, stay away from meggings (watch this video if you don't know what they are).

Luxe: The Ralph Lauren Antony Rain Boot (above) is crafted in Italy in dark brown rubber and burnished calf leather trim. This is the most elegant boot I've seen as far as wellies go. If you're a man of refined taste and want to look well-studied even in the middle of a torrential downpour, hit this style.

Hunter Wellington Boots
Scottish brand Hunter is famous for their appointment as waterproof footwear suppliers to the Royal Family of England. They've been around since the 19th century and produced rain boots for the British Army for both World Wars. They're enjoying great popularity these days especially here in the US and offer many different styles, most of which are unisex. If you're out for a pair of rain boots, you really can't go wrong with this brand. I'll be covering a lot of their styles here because, in addition to their solid quality and craftsmanship, they truly offer the most choices in terms of great style and design.

Classic: The Hunter Original Wellington (above, left) is the brand's most classic model and comes in various colors. I have this in black. I love it. You'll love it too.

Equestrian: The Hunter Regent (above, right) is the one I'd like to get next. If you want a more sleek and fashionable alternative to the Original, this is it. It's simple yet sturdy and has just the right touch of streamlined sophistication for a more regal, equestrian/military vibe.

Rugged: The Hunter Balmoral line (above and below) offers several masculine styles for a more testosterone-friendly aesthetic. Besides walking in wet city streets, these boots are also meant for outdoor sporting activities like hunting, shooting or fishing, making you impermeable to occasional "sissy man" accusations for wearing special "rain shoes." Apart from the Sovereign model (below) which comes in black and brown, the rest of the line comes in one color only: an outdoorsy/militaristic dark olive.

Military: The Hunter Balmoral Classic (above, left) strikes the perfect balance between ruggedness and style. Other models in this line such as the Bamboo Carbon (above, right) are twists on the Classic design and offer a more muscular sole and higher levels of heat insulation for cooler months. The bright red piping on top gives it a stylish edge.

Biker: According to the Hunter website, the Balmoral Sovereign (above) is "the most exclusive field boot for use in all weather, all terrain and all temperatures. A boot that turns heads in the field and town." In addition to its sturdiness and good looks, the biker vibe injects a good dose of attitude.

SHORT BOOTS
If tall boots aren't your thing or you find them cumbersome, short boots should fit the bill. Short boots are much easier to get in and out of and offer more versatility. Most guys already have some experience with wearing work boots, hiking boots or high-top sneakers, so wearing these rain boots shouldn't be such a novel idea. The best way to wear these boots is to loosely tuck in the hem of your jeans or pants in a nonchalant way.

The Hunter Original Short (below, left) is basically the Original model, but shorter. The Original Lace (below, right) is more or less the Original Short, but with laces. Your choice is simply a personal preference.

Hybrids: Hybrids are a great option if you don't want a style that's fully constructed in rubber and you want a more multi-purpose boot rather than a strict "rain boot." These half-shoes-half-utility-boots have more intricate styling details and resemble more to work boots than galoshes, allowing you to feel more like you're wearing work boots.

Classic American outdoor apparel brands have been making a comeback lately, and L.L. Bean is certainly in the mix. The Bison Bean Boot (below, left) is made of premium full-grain bison leather meant to shed rain and snow, with a supportive steel shank and rubber chain-tread bottom for superior performance. The 6" Bean Boot (below, right) is a shorter version of the Bean Boot and comes in a different type of leather. These boots offer a practical marriage of classicism, utility, versatility and solid good looks.

Sneakers: Swedish brand Tretorn has also been pushing to make a comeback, reinventing themselves as more than the simple canvas sneakers that made them so famous in the 80s. With their expertise in rubber-made products, they've been coming up lately with rubberized shoes that look like sneakers.

These two are my favorites in that they go beyond the hybrid styles above to looking more like everyday shoes. The Tretorn Klipporone (below, left) is just a good looking boot with distinct Swedish design sensibilities. It has just enough rubber on the sole and toe cap for maneuvering through inhospitable city terrain. The Strala model (below, right) looks like a simple slip-on sneaker that requires no thought except to just slip them on and walk out the door.

DON'TS: With all this talk about rain boots, it behooves me to cover a couple of Don'ts. I'm really sad to have to diss Converse here, but I've mulled over this boot for a few days, trying super hard to like them. But alas, I've reached the unfortunate conclusion that I can't get behind the Converse All Star Rain Boot (below, left).

As much as I love the Converse brand, heritage and products, they really laid an egg on this one. This boot minimizes the iconic All Star High Top to kitsch, looks like a toy and a cutesy mockery of itself. There's no way I can take a guy who wears them seriously, and if you do wear them and see a chick rolling her eyes to the back of her skull, that would be...uh...me. I'd better stay away from the L train to Hipsterville to avoid this boot sighting.

And as for the UGG (below, right), it's exactly what it's called: UGG. No matter what, just don't be "that guy" in a pair of UGGs. Period.