VERITAS | Men's Style Blog

Tuxedo Dos and Don’ts

Let’s finish up our 3-part formal wear analysis with a look at some black tie dos and don’ts.

 

The Long Tie

Wearing a long tie in place of a bow tie is perfectly acceptable, but as this option can look less formal, it’s important to make sure all the other elements are in perfect order.

Paul N. J. Ottosson would have been in better shape for his Academy Award photo op had his attire looked more polished and evening-worthy. Although the notch lapel jacket is a non-traditional style that’s now popularly accepted for formal occasions, I find that it looks more like a fancy business suit than a tux. The big tie with the big knot (Ack! No dimple!) and big stripes – coupled with a big, boxy jacket all made him look a tad clownish. But then again, he’s a sound engineer (with an impressive 3 Oscars and 4 nominations track record) and not a fashion plate, so I’ll cut him some slack.

In contrast, Lieve Schreiber (in Calvin Klein Collection) and Jean Dujardin (in Lanvin) did the long tie right with a shot of minimalist solid black sliver, tied tight in a simple-yet-always-elegant four-in-hand knot. And of course, with everything else done with precise, sharp tailoring, these guys did not mess around.

 

The Vest

Ben Affleck (in Gucci) didn’t look too shabby, but nonetheless missed the mark with just a couple of details. Because the high V shape cut out from the lines of the vest tends to create a stumpy torso under a jacket, he needed to balance it out with a jacket of a lower button stance. For some reason, his jacket appeared to have an unusually high button stance for a single-button, adding to the illusion of a thicker middle. Also, the extra fabric bunched around his ankles did more disservice to chop up his figure.

Meanwhile, Bradley Cooper (in Tom Ford) and Channing Tatum (in Gucci) perfected the formula by balancing the height of the vest’s neckline with a jacket of lower button stance, creating a more harmonious proportion that leaned out the torso. Their trousers were cut trim without excess fabric, further elongating the body. 

 

The Double-Breasted

Although I use Hugh Jackman (in Tom Ford) as an example of what to avoid, notice that I didn’t make him a don’t either. That’s because he actually looked great in his tux and I had no reason to take jabs at him. But that’s Hugh Jackman, not you. I’m using his example as a caution to the rest of the male population who aren’t as toweringly statuesque and solidly built as him. For the average guy without a chiseled body, and especially those who are vertically challenged and/or on the portly side, do stay away from the DB, as it will only accentuate those features.

The double-breasted tux is just as acceptable as the single-breasted, but pairing it with a shawl collar can be risky business in its possible association with the bathrobe. If you’re going for the DB, I recommend that you go for the peak lapel with a high gorge for a more formal, sharp, slimming and modern look. The gorge is the seam on the jacket where the collar meets the lapel.

Chris Pine (in Ermenegildo Zegna) was impressive in his very trim DB number, with everything cut and fitted to his body with scientific precision. The high-gorge peak lapel and minimalist design was very of-the-moment, fashion forward and advanced, making him truly stand apart as an original.

 

The Mature Gentleman

Again, as with Hugh Jackman, I’m not necessarily making Steven Spielberg (in Dior Homme) a don’t.  Actually, I was a bit torn on this choice. 40% of me wanted to give him mega props for a mature gentleman to rock such a fashionable tux in that razor-blade lapel. But then again, the majority naysayer in me screamed out to the TV while watching him, “Dress your age, papa!” So this was a toss-up, with a bias toward don’t.

Michael Douglas (in Canali), on the other hand, managed to show off a bit of older-guy fashion edge in just the right way. He did this by wearing a tux that was age-appropriately slim enough to say that he was cool and current, added just the right touch of novel cut-out detail on the lapel, then went for the kill with an injection of the ever-sophisticated midnight blue color with black accents.

 

So Close, Yet So Far Away

Finally, here is Christoph Waltz (in Prada) and George Clooney (in Georgio Armani). I leave you with these two very talented and charismatic gentlemen because they were so close to perfection had it not been for a couple of obvious misses. The devil is indeed in the details, and the details that bedeviled both of them were the same two issues that could have been easily averted:

1) Raise the jacket sleeve to show some cuff.

2) Slim down the trousers and shorten the break at the hem – just a little more for Mr. Waltz and a good extra yard for Mr. Clooney.

... And then there’s Daniel Radcliffe (in Prada) as a shining example of what could have been.

That’s it for formal wear, until next time. Hope you enjoyed the posts and that you found the information useful.

[Getty Images]

Related articles

Holiday Gear: Tux Deluxe

Wear a Tux Like a Leading Man

The Classic Tux Redux

The Classic Tux Redux

[Catch up on the previous post: “Wear a Tux Like a Leading Man”]

 

Continuing our formal wear coverage....

When it comes to black tie events, the classic tuxedo reigns supreme.

First of all, it’s a uniform. Uniforms are meant to be goof proof – the whole thing is already perfected for you. As long as you assemble yourself faithfully to proper point-by-point guidelines, there’s no way you can make a wrong turn. Plus there’s no denying that a man looks smashing in a uniform.

Another reason to go for the classic is that it exudes good manners. Like all uniforms, a properly worn tuxedo, as much as it sets you apart, is also meant for blending in. In this case, why? Why to gracefully allow your date – and all the ladies in attendance – to showcase their exquisite dresses. See any photos of these stars taken with their dates and you’ll see exactly what I’m talking about. A gentleman never attempts to one-up his date by fighting for fashion attention.

If you really must strut your stuff, it’s allowed, within tasteful reason – just make sure you own your shit 100% without a single shred of doubt (fine examples here). But for the rest of you who want a sure shot at looking pitch-perfect with zero risk, you can achieve so much with the classic tuxedo. Oh, and trust me: no one will mistake you for boring – ever.

A few notables who hit it perfectly at this year’s Oscars are Bradley Cooper (in Tom Ford), Eddie Redmayne (in Alexander McQueen), and Justin Theroux (in Salvatore Ferragamo). They kept it as classic as can be in a single-button peaked lapel style, but couldn’t have been more dashing.

This, however, doesn’t mean you can go to a local rent-a-tux and get any classic number and think it’s okay, because that will prove to be a disaster. Primarily, rentals will most often be too boxy (in order to accommodate more body types). Please – wear a tux, not a box. Not only is the boxy style awful-looking, it’s also very dated (see what I mean here). What you need is a classic tuxedo that says modern, contemporary, and for that, the proper fit is key.

Watch especially that the jacket’s shoulders don’t extend past the natural shoulder line, the sleeve length is cropped enough to show some shirt cuff, and the body is immaculately tailored to hug the figure. The trousers are sleek and slender with sharp creases, with minimal break at the hem so that it flows neatly onto the shoes. The plain-front turndown collar shirt is clean and simple, taking over the old-school winged version as the new modern classic. 

There’s always room for variations in keeping with the classic style. Bradley Cooper chose a trim vest and simple black studs for a graceful multi-dimensional look. Eddie Redmayne wore velvet slippers for a dose of sole-ful English propriety rarely seen on this side of the Atlantic. Justin Theroux wrapped on a cummerbund, a classic formal wear furnishing that’s fast becoming a rarity.

That’s it. Nothing more, nothing less. Stick with the classics for an effortless, sure-fire way to guarantee your spot as man of the hour – every time.

Next up, to round out our three-part tuxedo examination: “Tuxedo Dos and Don’ts”

[Getty Images]

Related articles

Holiday Gear: Tux Deluxe

Wear a Tux Like a Leading Man

Wear a Tux Like a Leading Man

 

The Oscars. It came. It went. And I don’t give a crap. But what I do give a crap about is the subject of men’s formal wear, which I’ll be covering in the next 3 posts.

Today I’ll talk about my Oscar pick for Best Dressed Man: Daniel Day-Lewis.

Daniel Day-Lewis is hands down (and feet down, and ass down) the winner of the night for embodying an impeccable formal presentation in his midnight blue Domenico Vacca tuxedo. And how apropos of him to also receive the Academy’s grand honor for Best Actor in a Leading Role. By the way, he now holds the record for the most golden statuettes in the category. Congratulations.

It’s becoming clear that I have a ‘thing’ for two things: the midnight blue shawl-collar tux and leading actors named Daniel who wear them. (If you want to see me squirm over the other Daniel, check out: “Holiday Gear: Tux Deluxe.”)

Apart from the leading man midnight blue color that takes a subtle yet glamorous departure from the sea of nominee blacks, what makes Mr. Day-Lewis’s look so absofuckinglutely right?

Let’s go down the list....

Jacket: The shawl collar has always been my favorite for its classicism and elegance. Daniel’s slimmed down version is very in-the-moment, while complementing his elongated features. Everything about him is long and lean, from his face down to his feet. The linear quality of the slim shawl collar harmonizes well with his body type.

The black accent on the collar works well to add contrast and dimension to this strict streamlined look, as well as to pick up the black of the bow tie. This creates a clean, precise frame over the backdrop of the white shirt to neatly direct the focus to his face, which is a man’s most identifiable and expressive feature. And his is just... lovely.

The chest pocket is also cut with the same black fabric as the collar, a quiet way to showcase a novel design detail. In fact, I had to take a closer look to make sure it was the pocket welt and not a black pocket square. In effect, this clever feature does double duty as functional pocket opening and decorative pocket square, further streamlining the look.

The single button is not only the ideal style for a formal jacket, it also creates a low button stance that cuts a deep V onto his torso, complementing his long lines. Anyone who wishes to create the look of a longer, slimmer torso would do well with lower button stance jackets. Button stance is the term used for the position of the jacket’s top button.

Shirt: Perfect in its minimalism – a quiet plain front with a simple turndown collar. No extras like pleating or embellished studs. It’s just a pared down yet elegant canvas to highlight his face and upper body. Also note the cuffs peeking out – this detail is never an option when wearing a shirt and jacket, as the extra sliver of cuff keeps the shirt and jacket visually linked, creating balance. It looks like he has a good inch showing instead of the usual half inch, thereby doubling his confidence and flair.

Trousers: Tuxedo trousers traditionally have a ribbon running down the outer side of each leg, made from the same fabric as the jacket’s satin or grosgrain lapel. Daniel took a pass, instead opting again for a sleek, solid colored trim-cut trouser that accentuates his lean lines. The sharply-pressed creases at the center of the legs create an even more severe linearity that further accentuates his vertical stature. The high hem with a minimal break seamlessly connects to his shoes, creating a continues flow.

Shoes: Sleek slip-ons in patent/high-polish leather. With no extraneous laces or bulk, it blends in beautifully with his trousers.

Accessories: Nothing more than a simple black blow tie in perfect proportion to his face and collar, and one single statement jewelry – his wedding band. For a look this stunning, nothing more is needed – or wanted.

Lastly, I want to comment on one thing that Daniel Day-Lewis possesses that’s both the essential foundation and final touch to his refined appearance. And that is his character. This outrageously talented man embodies poise and finesse alongside a deeply genuine humility, making him a man of incredible integrity, decency and grace. I believe that a cultivated, attractive inner quality is the key to appearing cultivated and attractive to others. So after all that I’ve said on this post regarding the outer, I leave you now with the most important ingredient for your image and style – yourself. Everything else is just icing on the cake.

On my next post, I’ll talk about some more impressive stars who shined in their tuxes on Oscar night.

[Images: Getty]

Related articles

Holiday Gear: Tux Deluxe

The Classic Tux Redux

It's in the Details

Here's a decent, good-looking fella. He's clean-cut and put-together. His clothes fit well. He seems like a nice guy, and there's generally nothing much to pick at. At the same time, he's just an Average Joe in a basic, ubiquitous uniform favored by millions of unimaginative American men: the always-flattering-but-totally-safe-and-utterly-boring light blue dress shirt, paired with it's southern counterpart — which, although not always flattering, is equally totally safe and utterly boring. Then cut the body in dead half with a black belt on an otherwise soft palette, and trouble brews. Clip on a cell phone holster to the waist? Pandemonium.

This leads me to a public service announcement regarding clipping your cell phone on your belt or carrying it inside your pant pocket: There is mounting scientific evidence that the electromagnetic radiation emitting from your cell phone, a low-power microwave (like the oven, but without walls) — in addition to all kinds of bioeffects, brain tumors and DNA damage — damage sperm. Over the years, I've been telling men that wearing cell phones clipped to the belt causes testicular cancer. Now I don't need to make it up. Science is finally backing up what fashion has known all along.

Now back to Mr. Average...

I want to show you that he doesn't need a radical wardrobe overhaul to go from looking alright to smashing. All a man needs to know is the proper balance of fit, proportion, color and texture. Let's go through this step by step:

He already seems to be good on understanding fit — tailored and lean without excess fabric bellowing in the breeze.

Next is proportion. His pant waist is too high up, resting on the natural, or traditional, waist. This does a few unflattering things: 1) This waistline, although appropriate in fashion movements of past, looks outdated and rather dad-like today. 2) The high waistline, especially cinched with the belt, emphasizes his hips, giving him a bit of a rounded, slightly feminine shape. 3) The high waist creates the appearance of a shorter torso compared to his overall body proportions – he would do well to elongate the area for a leaner body line.

On to color. Understanding the art of wearing proper colors that enhance your individual coloring is crucial to developing personal style. The right colors brighten and accentuate your face and bring out your character. This guy has rather strong features with good contrast between his eyes, hair and skin colors. However, the pale, washed out colors of his getup is fading him out instead of emphasizing his bold features. Although this color scheme will work wonderfully on men with softer, subtle colorings, this man would benefit from contrasting colors that complement his own contrasting coloring. This includes deep colors such as navy, purple or black, and bright colors such as bright white, lilac or ice blue. The shirt he's wearing is actually good, but he should pair it with other garments that help add more contrast instead of this pale chino.

I know that many men are afraid to wear color, but remember that "wearing color" isn't about wearing bright or loud colors, but rather, about wearing the correct colors — in any shade you're comfortable with — that make a real difference.

Texture keeps things interesting. It provides visual variety that breaks up the monotony of too many solid colors worn together. Texture can come in the form of surface interest, like an interesting weave on a cloth or from knits or sweaters, even if the garment is of a single color. Another type of texture comes from visual interest, in the form of colored prints and patterns as in checks, stripes and plaids.

Now let's bring this all together. In the image below, I morphed this guy's upper body with another image that I found, then painted over his solid shirt with the shirt pattern of the new image. Yeah, the forearms look a bit out of proportion — after all, it's not his — but all in all, I think this works well to drive the point. I then recolored the second image just to show you another color example, given the exact outfit.

Do you see the difference here? With just a few subtle changes, he looks like a new man. He didn't have to change his wardrobe preference in any way except to shift the proportions and add the right colors and textures. It's still the same exact button-front-shirt-and-chinos combo, but yet all the new components work together to make him look trimmer and well-proportioned. His facial features are more defined and there's strength to his coloring. He looks more youthful. Even his hair somehow looks better — this is a prime example of subtle shifts that make people ask curiously, "Hey, there's something different about you. Did you get a haircut or something?"

Add some stylish touches like nonchalantly rolled-up sleeves and a pair of cool shoes. If he wants to wear a belt, he should opt for a brown one that complements the shoes – this time the belt will sit at a lower waistline, so the horizontal line created by the belt will still keep his body in proportion instead of cutting him in half. Throw on a navy blazer or a corduroy or cotton sport jacket in navy or light brown, and with maybe even a slim tie, he's confidently ready to set forth. Upward and onward!

[Hover over each image for info.]

Holiday Gear: Tux Deluxe

As the art of dressing makes a comeback in menswear, the tuxedo is back in the limelight. So for this holiday season — as well as for any special formal occasion — consider wearing the tuxedo as not so much a begrudging sartorial obligation, but rather, a rare opportunity to shine as the distinctive, dashing, debonair man that you are.

Today's tux is modern, minimal, molds perfectly to your body, with meticulous attention to detail that provides lots of options to leave your personal mark — qualities that you can never dream to have in an abominable rental. So invest in your own tux and never be mistaken for a groomsman again. A man of genuine style owns himself — and his tux.

A classic tuxedo jacket has a single button, but the 2-button is a popular option. The peak lapel or shawl collar is the standard, but the notch collar has come to be commonly accepted. Although black is the most widely worn color, midnight blue is also a classic tux color that offers a dose of sophistication yet "something different." Remember: no more than 2 buttons, ever, and most importantly, make sure you're wearing a jacket, not a box.

Although the stand-up wing collar (below left) is the traditional tuxedo shirt style, the most current collar style is the turndown collar, which is basically the collar style you see on your normal dress shirt (below, right). Please: no vest, no cummerbund, and no clip-on bow ties, although if you prefer a cummerbund, keep it sleek and subtle. Don't get too fussy with the shape of the pocket square either, i.e., no origami.

Daniel Craig gets my vote for the best dressed tux man in the world. I just about die every time I see him in a tux (or suit ... or anything ... or almost nothing). Here, he sports a midnight blue classic shawl collar with silk cuffs by Tom Ford. Two words: Freakin' Sublime.

Classic Done Right: Single button peak lapel. Polished. Natty. Gracious. Charming. Turner Classic Movies ... but 2010.

Bringing Sexy Back: Midnight blue over black says "evening." Modern, masculine, dark and sensual. Shows that black-and-blue can be a really good thing.

So Luxe: The velvet jacket is opulent and sumptuous. Plush, ritzy, and swanky, it's perfect for the festive, glitzy holiday season. Don't worry, you won't come across as self-indulgent if you pair it with more basic, modest underpinnings throughout.

The Skinny: Not for the Average Joe, but works splendidly for the man who knows he's the hippest man in town.

Winter White: The white dinner jacket will get you noticed in a sea of black. Traditionally worn only in the domain of balmy, summery evenings, this is a sharp option when you're inviting in the new year in style from somewhere warm, preferably south of the equator.

[Above 5 Photos by Paola Kudacki for GQ.]

Related articles

Wear a Tux Like a Leading Man

The Classic Tux Redux

Tuxedo Dos and Don'ts