VERITAS | Men's Style Blog

Unfortunate Understatement

Last month, I wrote this post about the undershirt. Surprisingly, it's been one of my more popular posts so far. I never imagined that so many men were in turmoil over this subject, so I thought I'd take another stab and offer you an update: Two examples of exactly what not to do when wearing an undershirt.

As you know, I love the pink shirt. But sadly, what good are these pink shirts when you defile them so with improper undershirt skills? And what are they smiling about? As an aspiring men's fashion bodhisattva (definition here), I wish I can instantly awaken them to the virtues of proper undershirt practice. But since they're merely images I found on the web, I thought I'd make them unfortunate examples so that at least my readers could benefit from their blunders.

So what's wrong with the dude on the left? Do you see that heinous U carved out on his chest? You can't tell from the picture, but if you met him in person, you'll also be seeing his tank top straps carving out yet two more unflattering shapes around his shoulders and armpits. This is the equivalent of a woman wearing a black bra under a white shirt. Yeah, I know some of you are asking, "So what's wrong with that?" Well, I wouldn't say it's right or wrong per se, but rather, it's not classy. But then again, women don't dress that way wanting to convey class. So like them, I suppose it's up to you on how you want to expose your undershirt. Keep in mind, though, that women can get away with that kind of antic as sexy - you, however, cannot.

And how about the guy on the right? He's wearing his shirt open and wearing a crewneck undershirt. If you read my previous post, you'll know what I'm talking about. If you intentionally open your shirt, wear a V-neck. Also, this is going off-topic, but it's important: When wearing a dress shirt, tucked it in.

The purpose of the undershirt is to provide you with understated comfort and protection from sweat or cold. It's called an undershirt for a reason, so all I'm saying is: Try to keep it on the discreet side.

Don't Skip the Undershirt

A reader asks: "Do I need to wear an undershirt with my button-front shirts, and if I open up the shirt, is it okay to let the undershirt show?"

For most button-front shirts, and especially the dress shirt, you can certainly use an undershirt. There are several good reasons why. Primarily, the undershirt absorbs sweat and odor, keeping you cool and your shirt dry and sweat-stain free. (Conversely, when temperatures dip, it provides an added layer of warmth.) Secondly, it helps your shirt lie flat by smoothing out minor bumps and lumps on your man terrain, such as body hair and nipples. Thirdly, it camouflages: If your entire back is inked and you clock in at a conservative office, the undershirt is your ally.

The purpose of the undershirt is to keep you comfortable and looking clean, sharp and confident. Just avoid those boxy, beefy ones and go for the thinner, silkier versions that fit close to the body - the undershirt should support and streamline, not add extra bulk.

I personally think it's best to honor the undershirt as it was intended to be worn - under and hidden. And if a little must peek through, make sure the trimming on the neck is crisp, clean, and flat, like how it looks when it's brand new, or close to it. Also, please, PLEASE: No colored undershirts! This is not the place to play matchy-matchy. If you want to go that route, it shouldn't be an undershirt - it should be a t-shirt, and that's another subject altogether.

I recommend crewnecks under dress shirts, but only if you plan on keeping it buttoned all the way up, like when you wear a tie. Because it starts from the neck, the crew won't create any unsightly bumps or lines on the upper chest like a V-neck or tank top would. And if you're wearing a white or light-colored shirt, especially in thinner fabric that tends to show through, the crewneck is your best bet for the seamless, nipple-less effect.

That said, if you plan to open up your shirt a little, like undoing just the top button on the collar, wear a standard V-neck so you can show a little skin - isn't that the point? And if you want to go for that second button, wear undershirts that come in a deep V. As for the plunging neckline beyond that, well... you know how I feel about that.

Since tank tops provide the least amount of coverage, yet has a lot of lines that can show through under the shirt, I recommend them with short sleeves, patterns, or meatier fabrics that hold up well on their own.

Whether you choose to wear an undershirt is of course up to you. But for all its benefits, the undershirt is a critical, foundational component to your wardrobe that should not be underestimated. What feels right from the inside naturally looks right on the outside - too bad it's not always the other way around.

Navy Blazer, Part I: Give Up the Gold

As mentioned on the previous post, the navy sport jacket is the most versatile article of clothing to top off much of anything you wear in warm seasons. Not as serious as black, brighter navy shades feel vibrant, cool and crisp for hot days and nights, while darker navy exudes the gravitas that you may miss from wearing black, but with a bit more life blown into it.

Again, if you find yourself unable to deviate from black, start out with a deep, inky navy that looks dark navy during the day and almost black at night - consider it as training wheels before you advance to a true navy, which should clearly be more blue-cast than black. But even if you never get past this gorgeous shade of midnight, it doesn't matter - you're still wearing navy, and a deep, rich one at that.

No navy blazer talk would be complete without the gold button discussion. I wouldn't completely dismiss them, but they are definitely conventional. It could be argued that it's a classic, but unless you work for the GOP or run within/work in a very conservative and/or exclusive setting, the look will come across out-of-date and boring for most guys who want to show some personality and modernity. Unless you can somehow work it subversively as a fashion statement, it wouldn't fly - and most guys don't have enough fashion savvy to pull it off in this way, anyway. In defense of the gold button though, I would say that the guy below looks handsome and presentable, but from a style and originality perspective, all he's getting from me at best is..."Meh."

If you absolutely love those metal buttons, the only thing I can suggest is to make the switch from shiny gold to matte brass or nickel. Better yet, if you like the look and fit of your navy blazer and can part with the gold buttons, get them replaced with plastic or corozo buttons in a matching shade of navy -  you'll feel like you have a brand new jacket.

Now that you've got a rockin' navy blazer in order, up next: How to work it, and work it good!

To Pleat or Not to Pleat

...That is not the question - at least according to most fashion "authorities." The resounding chorus lately has been: "No pleats, please!"

Pleats are extremely unpopular right now. It conjures up images of middle management types in their ubiquitous Dockers wrinkle-free double-pleat chinos, with Blackberries clipped to their waists.

All the men's magazines have been dogging pleats for some time. Although I agree with most of the reasoning behind why pleats should be avoided given the current fashion trend, I can't say that they induce vomit the way they do for certain fashion types simply from a "pleat-sighting." Let me just start out by saying that, although I ain't a lover of pleats, I ain't a hater, either.

As with all things, no rule can be held absolute, and even if it could, it wouldn't apply to fashion anyway. Fashion by nature is about...well...changing fashions. So even though pleats are getting a beating these days, there will come a time when they'll rise above the fold again. It's just not their moment right now.

So let's start with the positive - why one should appreciate pleats. There is a purpose to why pleats exist in the universe in the first place. Like all classic sartorial details, pleats are engineered for a specific function, which is to allow the fabric on the pants to drape nicely. In the hands of a master tailor, pleats not only help pants drape beautifully, it makes your legs look leaner and longer. The purpose of pleats is to flatter - not cause civil offense.

I think the current state of disrespect for pleats have come largely due to it's misuse and plain bad taste perpetuated by mass pant manufacturers and the general public that weren't given any other options. Over time, bad pleat-wearing became the unfortunate norm.

But truth be told, there's not much in defense of pleats given the current mode of pleat-hatin'. So far I can only come up with 3 instances where pleats work:

1) You're tall and lean...preferably with a fat bank account: This is the only body type that makes pleats look incredibly good...or is that the other way around? Acquire beautifully crafted trousers made from fine, luxe fabrics with exquisite drape. Accessorize around the pant with quality shoes, belts, and perhaps a watch. In order to wear pleats convincingly, your entire look should mirror an uncommon elegance and refinement that oozes sophistication.

2) You're wide and/or heavy-set: Pleats can provide you with more room and comfort for all your thickness, and with artfully-placed pleats made from beautifully draped fabric, it may actually give the illusion of subtracting a little extra girth. Depending on your shape, there is a chance that flat-front pants may end up accentuating your thickness. On the flip side, if you wear stiffer pants like chinos where the pleats cause the pant to balloon out, not only will you obviously look wider, but worse, you'll look like you have womanly hips.

3) You're an advanced fashion type who possesses arcane style knowledge and an unshakable confidence in your arcane style knowledge: In other words, don't go there if you're not sure what this means. If you're of this ilk, I don't have to tell you that you can pull off  as many pleats as you dare to go. In fact, I'm sure you don't read this blog.

That's it guys. Given the current fashion environment, this means that for most of you, it's a good thing to avoid pleats altogether. Flat-front pants are modern, slimming, and will make you look younger. All from putting on a pair of pants? I say that's a great deal! Since you're going to wear pants anyway, you might as well wear ones that flatter and keep you current. And while you can't go wrong with flat-fronts, you can definitely - seriously - go wrong with pleats.

Coco Chanel said: "Elegance is refusal." So if elegance and relevance are on your agenda, remember that statment as it pertains to pleats and stay away from them - for the time being, anyway.

Shower-Proof Style

One thing you can count on about the weather is its unpredictability. How many times have you trusted the weather forecast that called for no rain before heading out for the day, only to find yourself caught in a downpour on your way home?

Spring weather between April to mid-May can be especially inconsistent. Here in NYC, every week this month has been a mixed bag of gorgeous spring weather for a day, followed by two days of gusty winds and torrential rain, then to a temperate few days, then back to warm again. The point is, with the weather pattern this schizophrenic, you can't afford to be without a trusty raincoat that keeps you warm during the cool morning and evening commute and protects you from the elements whenever it decides to throw down.

As the saying goes, "April showers bring May flowers." So for the sake of plants and flowers, suck it up and arm yourself with stylish rain gear that not only prepares you for the occasional shower, but one that will make you actually want the rain and clouds to keep on coming.

There are plenty of varieties for you to choose from in style and performance - from the heavy duty storm coats to paper-thin nylon versions. But for the average dude whose only extreme activity is getting in and out of cars and buildings and maybe walking a few blocks for his local coffee fix, nothing beats a classic trench, mackintosh, or any variation of them.

But be careful. The old-fashioned versions that your dad and grandpa wore, the ones that fall below the knees, with massive shoulders and curtains of fabric: STAY AWAY. If you're under 55, there's nothing in it for you except making you look like a tool - a tool that likes wearing his dad's coat.

The best coat for maximum flair and precipitation protection is a cropped version that falls mid-thigh. Look for ones in lighter weights that are made from cotton that's blended with impermeable fibers such as nylon and polyester, or cotton that's coated with resin, polyurethane or any kind of waterproof or water-resistant treatment. The key is to have the fabric look and feel closer to cotton or wool - more natural, but with a high-tech finish or weave that gives it its water-repellency. Turn away from fabrics that are too slick and shiny - you're not that kind of guy, are you?

Opt for tailored styles, but you decide if you want a simpler and less structured style (single-breasted, above) or a more detailed and highly structured style (belted double-breasted below). Choosing single-breasted or double-breasted is up to you. Single-breasted styles tend to be more relaxed; double-breasted exudes a sharper, military feeling. Both have mad style and look smart as hell.

Colorwise, you'll never go wrong with the classics: khaki, stone, grey or black.

Chosen carefully and intelligently, the raincoat is a sound investment piece that will add polish and flair to any ensemble for years to come. A gentleman always steps out in style - especially when it's dark, stormy, and straight-up ugly out there.