VERITAS | Men's Style Blog

On the Street

Here's a wonderful video column by Bill Cunningham, revered fashion photographer and journalist for The New York Times, best known for his street photography. If you know about The Sartorialist (see sidebar, under "Men's Style Sites"), then Bill Cunningham is the godfather of this street-style fashion photography.

I've read that he spends 30 hours a week on the streets with his trademark bicycle and camera, and has done so every week for the past several decades. Designer Oscar de la Renta has said, "More than anyone else in the city, he has the whole visual history of the last 40 or 50 years of New York. It's the total scope of fashion in the life of New York." (Quote lifted from Wikipedia)

In this video, Bill walks us through the current state of men's fashion as seen on the streets of his stomping ground, Manhattan. He speaks about the evolution of menswear from the rigidity of the 50s to today's state of boundless freedom. Not only do I love these photos of real-life stylish men, but the addition of Bill's voice truly doubles the pleasure. The man is in his 80s, but his exuberance, joy and love for his work and for fashion is very energizing.

The Times doesn't allow this video to be embedded, so ... sorry dear readers ... I'm going to have to ask you to exert your finger muscles and click here to view it. The extra click, I think, is worth it for such a delightful walk with Bill to the world of men's summer fashion.

If you're in New York and want to see this legend in action, you'll have a good chance finding him on the corner of Fifth Avenue and 57th Street, or in that vicinity, where he's regularly seen shuttering away at the fashionable pedestrians that glut the area. If you spot an old man with white hair and a camera and bicycle, that's him. There's also word that a documentary is currently in the works for said man, bicycle, and camera.

Enjoy.

Grey's Anatomy

I've been getting some emails from readers lately regarding grey: "Can you wear grey in the summer?" "Can you wear grey pants in the summer?" "How do you wear grey?"

I didn't realize this color could be cause for such perplexity for some of you. So let's take it on.

Yes, you can certainly wear grey in the summer. In fact, your wardrobe shouldn't be without it. Grey is a perfect foundational staple. It's a diverse neutral that goes well with just about anything you wear, and especially great for pairing with the punchy colors of spring and summer.

The best way to wear grey in warm seasons is by wearing it as a pant, jean, jacket, or suit - in other words, as a neutral backdrop for adding a pop of fresh color through shirts, accessories, and shoes. Keep the grey tones on the light to medium range. Darker greys and charcoals are ideal for fall/winter, but if a more dressy/formal occasion beckons you, it's a great summer alternative to a black suit.

Here's a basic color chart that I so lovingly put together for you, focusing on grey and the coordinating colors that will maximize your summer style.

For reasons explained above, the grey swatches in the middle represent either a grey pant, jean, jacket or suit. Notice the tonal range, from pale to light to medium. The top two rows of color are your tops. The first row is good for casual knitwear such as polos, t-shirts and pullovers, with the last two colors (navy and black) also filling in for jacket colors if you're wearing grey pants and need a jacket. The second row continues as colors for knit tops, but is especially great for button-front dress shirts or sport shirts.

Although the colors shown are solids, they're only meant to indicate general colors, meaning you should have fun exploring stripes, checks and plaids that come in those shades. In fact, even though some of the colors on the top row may be jarring as solid button-fronts (and therefore not explicitly recommended for them), worn as a crisp stripe or check on a white background and paired with a grey pant, jacket or suit will catapult your style profile to heights you've never before realized.

The bottom row is shoe colors, from white to caramel, cognac, brown, olive and blue (especially in suede or canvas), to black. The last three colors also represent pant colors if you're only wearing a grey jacket - just pick out a shirt color from the top two rows. Also, the navy color under both the jacket and pants sections can stand in for denim, preferably on the cleaner, darker side.

Additional information not covered on the chart: Grey shirts. Grey t-shirts, especially the heathered variety, go with practically anything and any color you wear. For grey button-front shirts, stick with the jacket and pants sections on the chart. Again, the navy color can mean denim in a medium to dark rinse. A pale grey button-front is the best option for a navy pant or suit. You can go a little deeper when pairing with a black pant or suit.

Hope this handy chart helps demystify some of your grey conundrums.

Thanks for reading Veritas Men's Style Blog and keep the questions coming. I'm here to help!

Modern Madras

I'm going to start where I left off yesterday: With madras, a little goes a long way.

The best - and goof-proof way - to wear madras is to wear one instance of it, with everything else toned down and grounded in basic styles and neutral colors. The most low-key madras garments to wear are short-sleeved shirts and shorts because, well... there's just less fabric to wear than long sleeves, pants, or jackets. Also, if you're not fond of the preppy look and afraid the madras will instantly transform you to Mr. Nantucket, this formula is your insurance. The key to current madras dressing is to look for garments that are slim fit, with subdued, sun-baked vegetable colors that aren't too flashy.

Pair a subtle madras pattern with crisp dark pants or jeans, and finish with dark shoes - this will provide the gravitas that counterbalances the casualness of the shirt. Tuck in the shirt and add a dark blazer for the evening, and you'll be the handsomest man in at least a 10-block radius.

To dress up shorts a touch, wear a white button-down shirt with a lightweight solid neutral cardigan, paired with white-soled luxe suede slip-ons. A cardigan feels more contemporary than a classic pullover, and it's easy to slip on and off depending on the temperature and time of day without messing up your 'do - just don't tie it around your shoulders if you don't want the prep association.

For an even more modern look, opt for a slim fitting black-and-white graphic patchwork. All the components still reference the madras, but without the telltale colors. Besides the stylish trim fit and minimalist color combo, the shirt above has another element of newness - the button-flap chest pocket.

And if you really can't get yourself to get inside a madras (or madras-like) shirt or short, ease into it with accessories or shoes. Everything comes in madras - as ties, belts, and even watch straps. Here's a pair of canvas shoes that you can casually slip on for a taste of this centuries-old summer fabric. Wear it for fun with a pair of jeans (or shorts) and t-shirt to energize a lazy summer afternoon.

Hey, if you're a style pro who likes to taking things to the edge and absolutely knows how to make a proper style statement without crossing into douchebag territory, by all means pile the madras on. If you're a master prep who's so confident not to be mistaken for a master perp, then go do your thing. But for most regular guys such as my readers, stick to the time-honored mantra of "Less Is More." You can't argue with simply looking great.

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Style Lexicon: Madras

Madras is a fine lightweight fabric with a colorful woven pattern. Generally made from cotton, it's used primarily for summer clothing.

The fabric takes its eponymous name from its Indian birthplace, Madras, a city established by the British in the 17th century. Located on the Coromandel Coast of the Bay of Bengal in southeast India, Madras was officially renamed to Chennai in 1996, and is the state capital of Tamil Nadu, currently the fifth most populous city in India.

You can see how a country in one of the world's hottest climates knows a thing or two about summer dressing. In India, madras is also referred to as "60/40" cloth, representing the thread count: 60 threads running lengthwise (called "warp") and 40 crosswise (called "weft"). This has apparently been determined to be the perfect ratio for optimal lightness and strength, helping the fabric breathe yet remain strong - an ideal fabric for the intense summer heat of India and everywhere else without air conditioning.

Madras usually has a solid color background with patterns or designs on them, but the most ubiquitous ones are those that come in plaids. There are many who believe that the madras plaid was influenced by the Scots during their occupation in southern India in the 1800s. They say that the native weavers simply copied, with some modifications, the tartan patterns worn by the Scottish regiments during that time. Whether this was true or not - and I can see the plausibility from a historical context - I do have to admit that there are similarities between the two plaids in both design as well as basic color schemes. Many madrases look like dusty, faded tartans.

Traditional madras yarns were dyed with organic vegetable dyes, which was why the colors, although colorful, always had a natural, earthen cast to them. Also, because those veggie dyes were not colorfast (color that won't fade or run when washed, and therefore stable), they naturally "bled" every time the madras was washed, resulting in a newly blended effect each time it was laundered. This style, called "Bleeding Madras" was popular during the 1960s, and that was the true beauty of an authentic madras.

Today, most madras are "fast-dyed," meaning they're dyed with stable chemical dyes that don't bleed or fade, allowing you to throw them in the wash with the rest of your colored garments without everything else in the load coming out a little madras-y. And although a "true" madras is 100% hand-loomed from fine yarn-dyed cotton in India and should technically be dyed with these bleeding vegetable dyes, even the hand-loomed ones from India these days are usually dyed colorfast.

At present, madras generally refer to any lightweight cotton fabric that has the "madras look." To imitate traditional madras, manufacturers of prep gear such as Ralph Lauren, Brooks Brothers and J.Crew mimic the vegetable colors and faded effect by dying the fabric in earthy colors such as maroon, dusty navy and saffron, and use enzymes and special wash techniques to create that well-worn madras look and feel. I like to call it the "McMadras:" First it's fast-dyed, then fast-forwarded through the space-time continuum to provide you with instant satisfaction of a well-worn-and-bled madras - without having to endure the washings, the wear, and the pain (or pleasure) of caring for the bloody mess. Great! Well... except for the environmental issues.... :(...

Patchwork madras are also very popular, an invention which also originated from India. Traditionally, it was a creative and economical way to repurpose various madras scraps and ends left over from the cutting floor. They were then cut into small squares and sewn back together to create a single piece of fabric that could be made into garments. Interestingly, the word "patch" also originates from India as an abbreviation of the Telugu word pach’chadamu, meaning "two pieces of cotton cloth joined together."

Madras is a definitive summer fabric, as well as a quintessential component of the summer preppy style. You see it made in just about anything - shirts, pants, shorts, jackets, shoes, hats, etc. It's a versatile and unique fabric that should suit almost every man in the heat of summer, prep or not. And if you can't see yourself draped in a yard or two of madras (i.e., shirt, pants or jacket), then try it as an accent piece such as a pocket square, tie or shoe. With madras, a little goes a long way.

Think Pink

After all that talk about the pink shirt on the previous post, it's now time for some practical applications. Whether solid or patterned, don't just think pink, wear pink! Here are some simple suggestions....

Summer Friday: One of the few still left with a job? Instead of merely feeling grateful enough to have a job, why not use this opportunity to get ahead? The competition is stiffer than ever in retaining cubicle turf, and now is certainly not the time to schmuck around in standard-issue work attire - especially on those dubious days dubbed "Casual Friday." Make your presence at the office count with optimistic pink stripes, dark jeans, and an unlined cotton/linen blend blazer that keeps you well-ventilated and looking sharp, not stiff. If you need to wear a tie, go for a knit or cotton woven tie in a solid or pattern. Lose the tie when heading out to cocktail hour and you might end up hooking up with something more than a couple of gin and tonics.

Of course, if you want to wear this shirt with a suit, just throw on a navy, khaki, or light-to-medium grey suit and you'll emit grace and charm at the office, summer weddings, job interviews, and wherever else you go.

Weekend Warrior: It's time to drop off the spread collar dress shirt at the cleaners for the weekend and revel in a sporty, playful shirt. Button-down collar optional, but recommended. Wear it with white jeans (or any pair of jeans, really, but white is the summer jean), and classic kicks such as Converse Chuck Taylors or Adidas Stan Smiths. White jeans + white sneakers = white hot. A softly structured nylon messenger bag is uncomplicated and laid-back, while holding all your essentials for weekend errands or just hanging out. It's also roomy enough to pack a lightweight navy cardigan with accent trimming in case your weekend excursion runs well into the brisk night.

Lazy Sunday: This is your time to chill out, maybe even to recuperate from last night's debauchery. To reflect this state of mind, your shirt shouldn't be perfectly pressed nor (gasp!) starched (bad boy!). Save that for Monday, and instead grab a sport shirt that looks like you fished it straight from the dryer, with its subtle puckers and soft crinkles intact. Unless it's way too wrinkly - you want to look effortless and unaffected, not sloppy - steam it out a bit just enough to create a carefree, undone, artfully disheveled aesthetic. In order for you to get to your local brunch joint for some eggs, and more importantly, Bloody Marys (hair of the dog, you say?), you'll need to wear clothes and shoes anyway. So why not make it a fresh, rosy shirt to add some color back to your face, simple chino shorts (or pants), and some easy-on-easy-off slip-ons? Add on a tri-color webbed belt for a tasteful jolt of color, and good luck trying to keep a low profile with those handsome movie star shades.

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