VERITAS | Men's Style Blog

Unfortunate Understatement

Last month, I wrote this post about the undershirt. Surprisingly, it's been one of my more popular posts so far. I never imagined that so many men were in turmoil over this subject, so I thought I'd take another stab and offer you an update: Two examples of exactly what not to do when wearing an undershirt.

As you know, I love the pink shirt. But sadly, what good are these pink shirts when you defile them so with improper undershirt skills? And what are they smiling about? As an aspiring men's fashion bodhisattva (definition here), I wish I can instantly awaken them to the virtues of proper undershirt practice. But since they're merely images I found on the web, I thought I'd make them unfortunate examples so that at least my readers could benefit from their blunders.

So what's wrong with the dude on the left? Do you see that heinous U carved out on his chest? You can't tell from the picture, but if you met him in person, you'll also be seeing his tank top straps carving out yet two more unflattering shapes around his shoulders and armpits. This is the equivalent of a woman wearing a black bra under a white shirt. Yeah, I know some of you are asking, "So what's wrong with that?" Well, I wouldn't say it's right or wrong per se, but rather, it's not classy. But then again, women don't dress that way wanting to convey class. So like them, I suppose it's up to you on how you want to expose your undershirt. Keep in mind, though, that women can get away with that kind of antic as sexy - you, however, cannot.

And how about the guy on the right? He's wearing his shirt open and wearing a crewneck undershirt. If you read my previous post, you'll know what I'm talking about. If you intentionally open your shirt, wear a V-neck. Also, this is going off-topic, but it's important: When wearing a dress shirt, tucked it in.

The purpose of the undershirt is to provide you with understated comfort and protection from sweat or cold. It's called an undershirt for a reason, so all I'm saying is: Try to keep it on the discreet side.

Don't Skip the Undershirt

A reader asks: "Do I need to wear an undershirt with my button-front shirts, and if I open up the shirt, is it okay to let the undershirt show?"

For most button-front shirts, and especially the dress shirt, you can certainly use an undershirt. There are several good reasons why. Primarily, the undershirt absorbs sweat and odor, keeping you cool and your shirt dry and sweat-stain free. (Conversely, when temperatures dip, it provides an added layer of warmth.) Secondly, it helps your shirt lie flat by smoothing out minor bumps and lumps on your man terrain, such as body hair and nipples. Thirdly, it camouflages: If your entire back is inked and you clock in at a conservative office, the undershirt is your ally.

The purpose of the undershirt is to keep you comfortable and looking clean, sharp and confident. Just avoid those boxy, beefy ones and go for the thinner, silkier versions that fit close to the body - the undershirt should support and streamline, not add extra bulk.

I personally think it's best to honor the undershirt as it was intended to be worn - under and hidden. And if a little must peek through, make sure the trimming on the neck is crisp, clean, and flat, like how it looks when it's brand new, or close to it. Also, please, PLEASE: No colored undershirts! This is not the place to play matchy-matchy. If you want to go that route, it shouldn't be an undershirt - it should be a t-shirt, and that's another subject altogether.

I recommend crewnecks under dress shirts, but only if you plan on keeping it buttoned all the way up, like when you wear a tie. Because it starts from the neck, the crew won't create any unsightly bumps or lines on the upper chest like a V-neck or tank top would. And if you're wearing a white or light-colored shirt, especially in thinner fabric that tends to show through, the crewneck is your best bet for the seamless, nipple-less effect.

That said, if you plan to open up your shirt a little, like undoing just the top button on the collar, wear a standard V-neck so you can show a little skin - isn't that the point? And if you want to go for that second button, wear undershirts that come in a deep V. As for the plunging neckline beyond that, well... you know how I feel about that.

Since tank tops provide the least amount of coverage, yet has a lot of lines that can show through under the shirt, I recommend them with short sleeves, patterns, or meatier fabrics that hold up well on their own.

Whether you choose to wear an undershirt is of course up to you. But for all its benefits, the undershirt is a critical, foundational component to your wardrobe that should not be underestimated. What feels right from the inside naturally looks right on the outside - too bad it's not always the other way around.